Polymer clay may stain. CLAY MAY DAMAGE UNPROTECTED FURNITURE OR FINISHED SURFACES. DO NOT USE polymer clay on unprotected surfaces. We recommend working on the Sculpey clay mat, wax paper, metal baking sheet, or disposable foil. Start with clean hands and work surface area. Knead clay until soft and smooth. For best results, clean your hands in between colors. Shape clay, pressing pieces together firmly. Bake on oven-proof glass or metal surface at 275°F (130 °C) for 30 minutes per ¼" (6 mm) thickness. For best baking results, use an oven thermometer. DO NOT USE MICROWAVE OVEN. DO NOT EXCEED THE ABOVE TEMPERATURE OR RECOMMENDED BAKING TIME. Wash hands after use. Baking should be completed by an adult.Begin by preheating oven to 275 °F (130 °C). Test temperature with oven thermometer for perfectly cured clay. For best results, condition all clay by running it through the Clay Conditioning Machine for several passes on the widest setting. Fold the clay in half after each pass and insert the fold side into the rollers first.
Using the Clay Conditioning Machine, make a Light Gold mixture by combining 2-parts 18K Gold with 1-part Pearl.
Make sheets of clay using the clay conditioning machine of - Wasabi, Purple, Light Gold mix and Fuchsia. Roll each color out on a #2 thickness.
Using the Super Slicer cut rectangles of each color that is about 2-1/2” long by 1-1/2” wide. Stack the colors in the order you want them. NOTE: If your layers are thin you might want to cut your strips to 5” long so you can cut your stack in half lengthwise and stack the two halves. You will want your stack to be as thick as or a little thicker than the depth of the technique design block.
Lightly mist the Technique Design Block with water and then press it into your stack of clay as far as it will go and remove block. After you have pulled the Design Block free from your stack of clay, gently press your stack of clay onto your work surface (this is to keep the stack from sliding or lifting off your work surface while you cut your slices). Holding the super slicer parallel to the stack of patterned clay slice off small pieces until you see the pattern emerge in a way that catches your eye. Once you have reached the pattern you like use the Acrylic Roller to roll the surface smooth. Be sure to apply gentle pressure and roll in all four directions so the pattern does not distort. It is best to end up with a sheet that about the thickness of the #1 setting on the clay conditioning machine.
Use your ¾” Circle Graduated Cutter to cut out as many circles as you can form the patterned sheet.
Repeat Steps 1 through 3 using stacks that have been put together using various sheet thicknesses and color orders. This will give you a nice variety of patterns on your beads.
Pick up two of your circles and place them on the smallest dome form on the Hollow Bead Maker. Use the palm of your hand and fingers to gently press the circle of clay down onto the form so that it makes good contact, especially around the edges. Bake the circles on the form according to the directions above. Repeat this process with the remaining circles you have cut out.
Lay out your piece of 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper (grit side up) onto a level surface and pour a little water on the surface. Place your domed circle open side down onto the sandpaper. Using gentle and even pressure, press and rub the dome in a circular motion against the sandpaper. Stop frequently to rinse the sandpaper off so it does not get clogged up with sanded bits of clay. You want to sand until the open edge of the domed clay is flat so the two beads can fit together nicely. Continue this process with the remaining domed circles.
Once you have all of your circles sanded you can match them up in pairs where the two halves best match up. Once the circles are paired lay them out in your work area. Take one half of the bead; lay a ruler across the sanded edge of the piece so you can draw a straight line. Where you draw this line will be determined by whether you want your bead to have a side hole on. Draw your line for carving and carve grooves along the lines you marked. Carve a groove using the Super Slicer that is about half the size of the hole you want. Keep in mind the size beading wire or cord you are going to be putting the bead on when you decide how deep to carve the groove. Pick up the other half of the bead and place the two open sides together. Shift and rotate them together until you have them lined up so you see as little gapping as possible. Holding them together mark a line on the un-carved bead to match where the grooves are on the other bread. Take the two halves apart and carve grooves along the lines you marked.
Once you have finished carving the grooves add a thin line of Bake N’ Bond around the outer edge of the carved half avoiding the grooves. Place the two halves together and gently squeeze so they make solid contact. You can use your finger tip to wipe away any Bake N’ Bond that may squeeze out the sides. To make sure the grooves are still clear insert the beading wire again to clear out the groove. Repeat this process until all of your beads have the two halves joined. Lay the beads onto a layer of polyester batting and bake for approximately 20 minutes.
To finish your bracelet string the beads by using 7 seed beads on each side in between to hold the spacing of your hollow beads. Add the clasp of your choosing.