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Sculpey Soufflé™ Mist Over Fiji Bracelet

Sculpey Soufflé™ Mist Over Fiji Bracelet

Designed by Diana Ferguson
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This tropical island inspired stretch bracelet is as fun to make as it is to wear. It’s constructed using two-hole Czech glass carrier beads covered with a Mokume Gane veneer. The addition of natural color wood rounds adds a breezy, boho vibe. Carrier beads are typically used to “carry” strips of Peyote Stitch beadwork in order to create complex looking bracelets and necklaces. But I thought, why not use them to “carry” a beautiful polymer clay veneer instead? For this project, we’ll use a layered Mokume Gane technique paired with a gorgeous palette comprised of Sculpey® Soufflé™ Fiji, Poppy Seed, Igloo, Latte, and Cowboy. TIME TO COMPLETION: Time (excluding baking): 2 to 2-1/2 hours

• For this tutorial, Setting 1 on the Pasta Machine represents the thickest setting.
• There are many different Mokume Gane techniques and any of them can be used to create veneers that will work for this bracelet design. The technique I used was inspired by a tutorial from Angela Barenholtz of Angela Designs.
• Feel free to experiment! Layering the clay colors differently and varying sheet thicknesses can give you a different look. Or, select different accent bead sizes and materials. What about 8 mm wood beads instead 4-5 mm? Or coral instead of wood? The options are endless.
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  • Deli paper
  • Brayer
  • 1” flat head stencil brush (
  • 13-15 Czech Glass carrier beads, two-hole, 9 mm x 17 mm, in color of your choice. I used Blue Luster (
  • 13-15 4-5 mm round wood beads, Taiwanese cheesewood (waxed) (
  • Crystal Tec 1 mm elastic cord in clear (
  • Bead stopper or binder clip
  • Scissors
  • Baby Wipes
  • E6000, Loctite Super Glue, or Alene’s Jewel-It Embellishing Glue
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Project Instructions
    Getting Started:
Please make sure your work area is covered and you are not working on an unprotected surface. We recommend working on the Sculpey® Oven-Safe Work Mat, wax paper, metal baking sheet, or disposable foil. Uncured clay may damage unprotected furniture or finished surfaces. Be sure to cover your crafting area appropriately.

Start with clean hands, unwrap and knead clay until soft and smooth, or condition by running clay though a Pasta Machine. We recommend using a designated machine for clay purposes only. When working with multiple colors, clean hands with soap and water or baby wipes (we have found that baby wipes work best) before switching colors. Shape clay, pressing pieces firmly together. Wash hands after use.

Begin by preheating oven to 275 °F (130 °C). After you are done creating; for best results bake clay on an oven-proof surface such metal, aluminum foil, an index card or the Sculpey® Clay Mat at 275°F (130 °C) for 30 minutes per 1/4" (6 mm) thickness according to package directions. Oven safe glass or ceramic surfaces are also acceptable for baking; however please note that the baking times may take longer as the glass or ceramic surfaces take longer to heat up. For best baking results, use an oven thermometer. DO NOT USE MICROWAVE OVEN. DO NOT EXCEED THE ABOVE TEMPERATURE OR RECOMMENDED BAKING TIME.
Condition together 1/4 package of Souffle Igloo and a pea-sized amount of Souffle Fiji. Run through Pasta Machine at Setting 1. Cut 2 squares 1-1/2” x 1-1/2”. Set aside.
photo shows the estimated clay amounts described
Condition a quarter package each of Souffle Fiji, Souffle Latte, and Souffle Cowboy. Run through Pasta Machine at Setting 1. Cut a 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” square of each (use a square cutter if you have one).
photo shows the 4 squares of color
Create a stack of Latte, Fiji, Fiji-tinted Igloo, Cowboy, and Fiji-tinted Igloo.
photo shows the stacked clays in order described
Run this stack through the pasta machine on Setting 1.
photo shows the flattened clay stack
Flip the Rectangle so the Latte side is facing up and cut in half. Set aside.
photo shows the cut clay with Latte side up
Condition 1/4 package of Souffle Poppy Seed. Run through Pasta Machine on Setting 4. Using your clay blade, cut 2 pieces that roughly match the size of one of the rectangle pieces created in Step 6. The objective is to create a sandwich layer of these two pieces that is slightly thicker than the thickness of the first rectangle you created.
photo shows the pieces of clay laid out on worksurface
Create your final sandwich by layering as follows: black rectangle, black rectangle, multicolor rectangle, lightest side down, multicolor rectangle, lightest side down.
photo shows the previously stacked clay sheets with the Poppy Seed on one side
Run this sandwich through Pasta Machine on Setting 1.
photo shows the long thinner piece of clay
Make sure your texture sheet is clean. If necessary, dust lightly with cornstarch to prevent sticking. Place texture sheet on final sandwich, with black clay side facing up.
photo shows texture sheet facedown on clay
Applying firm pressure (I like to work on a low table for better leverage), slowly and carefully run the roller over the texture sheet. Firm pressure is important so that the texture goes deep but not all the way through the clay sandwich. Slow is important so the sandwich doesn’t bunch up under the pressure of the roller
photo shows roller on top of texture sheet and clay
Carefully lift texture sheet from clay sandwich.
photo shows the textured clay
Place your textured sandwich on a hard surface that it will stick to. I like a ceramic tile for this purpose. Using a flexible clay blade, shave off the raised areas of the sandwich. Do this with the blade parallel to the sandwich and slightly bent. Go very slowly, shaving off very thin layers, bit by bit. The objective is reveal the colored patterns that lies beneath the black. Take your time and go slowly and methodically. Never shave the entire sheet at once. It’s helpful to clean the blade with a baby wipe between every few shaves, or even after every shave.

Note: The excess clay can be wadded together in a ball to be saved for a future use.

Stop when you reached a point where you’re satisfied with the revealed pattern. I wanted lots of the beautiful Fiji to show through, so I made sure to shave down to reach that point somewhat regularly throughout the sheet.
photo shows the sheet as described
Once you’ve obtained the desired pattern, place the veneer between two sheets of deli paper and roll lightly with your brayer to smooth and even the sheet.

Do not run the sheet through the Pasta Machine as this will distort the pattern.
Note: the veneer is fairly thin, so handle carefully.
photo shows the clay sheet with deli paper on it
Lay the carrier beads across your veneer and use as a guide to cut the veneer into strips the width of your carrier beads (approximately 5/8” wide) and a little over 1-1/2” long, using your clay blade. Cut as many strips as the number of carrier beads you’re using. I find 14 carrier beads interspersed with the 5 mm wooden beads fits a 6-1/4” to 6-1/2” wrist nicely.
photo shows the carrier beads on the cut clay strips
Now you will cover your carrier beads with the veneers. Flip the veneer strips over so the un-patterned side is facing up.
Place the carrier bead on the strip about a third of the way from the top of the strip.
Fold strip around carrier bead, so that the ends meet. This doesn’t have to be a precise edge; they can even overlap a little bit.
Use your fingers to gentle meld the seam and push the strip against the edges of the bead.
photo shows the 3 steps as described
Using the flat head stipple brush, gently tap into the veneer strip. This adds a fun, beachy texture and helps adhere the veneer to the bead. Using a light tapping motion with the stipple brush, push the veneer just slightly over the edge of the carrier bead. If you go too far, you can clean up any extra clay by slicing it off with your clay blade.

Repeat this veneering process for all the carrier beads.

Bake the veneered carrier beads according to the instructions for Souffle.
photo shows the textured beads and stipple brush
Cut two lengths of elastic cord, each about 13” long. Stretch the cord, release and then clip the two strands with a bead stopper or binder clip.

Begin the stringing process. Alternate round wood beads with veneered carrier beads. Begin with a set of the wood beads and end with a carrier bead.
photo shows the stringing in process
Using a Surgeon’s Knot, tie the elastic cord ends together.

Secure knots with a dab of E6000, Loctite Super Glue, or Aleene’s Jewel-It Embellishing Glue. Allow to dry, then trim excess cord. The bracelet is now ready to wear!
photo shows the knotted elastic
Here is a closeup shot of the finished bracelet!
photo shows a closeup shot of the finished bracelet