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Sculpey Model Air™ Lightswitch Plate Cover

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From $8.99

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"This light switch plate cover is easy to make, and will spruce up any room. Read on and learn how to make your own.   Project By Dani Rapinett"
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Sculpey Model Air™ Lightswitch Plate Cover
Sculpey Model Air™ Lightswitch Plate Cover

In stock

$8.99

Summary
    Acrylic Paints in Variety of Colors, Variety of Metal Charms (I have used ‘Garden’ themed charms but you could also any themed charms you wish or even buttons), Sculpey Mold Maker or 2 Part Silicon Molding Compound (I have used Christi Friesen’s Mold Maker.), Lightswitch Plate, Plain Paper, 2 Part Epoxy Glue, Smooth Work Surface (glass, ceramic etc), Craft Knife, Knitting Needle/Needle Tool, Paintbrush, Pencil, Scissors,|Acrylic Paints in Variety of Colors, Variety of Metal Charms (I have used ‘Garden’ themed charms but you could also any themed charms you wish or even buttons), Sculpey Mold Maker or 2 Part Silicon Molding Compound (I have used Christi Friesen’s Mold Maker.), Lightswitch Plate, Plain Paper, 2 Part Epoxy Glue, Smooth Work Surface (glass, ceramic etc), Craft Knife, Knitting Needle/Needle Tool, Paintbrush, Pencil, Scissors,

    Project Instructions

    Start with clean hands and work surface area. Good work surfaces include wax paper or disposable foil. Wash hands after use.
    Collect your charms and prepare your Sculpey Mold Maker clay or 2-part molding compound.Condition/soften your Mold Maker clay in your hands or mix your 2-part molding compound together thoroughly.Divide and shape into round balls or oval logs. The size will depend on how big your charms are.Push the charms into the clay/mould maker. Bake the polymer clay according to manufacturer’s instructions or leave the mold maker to cure for about an hour or so.
    Create a paper template of your lightswitch plate. This template does not need to be exact – it can be a little bigger than the actual plate, but ensure it is not smaller.
    Roll out about ¾ of the Model Air™ Clay into a rectangular shape. Use your template to gauge the size. Center your template over the sheet of clay and using your craft knife and knitting needle, mark out, then cut out, the center of the light switch plate and the screw holes.
    Place the texture sheet on top of the clay sheet. Roll from bottom to top with even pressure to create a texture in the clay. The harder you press, the deeper the impression will be. Use your fingers and your roller to even up the sides. If you would like the sides to be exactly straight, use a ruler and the Super Slicer blade. I preferred the wavy, natural effect so I did not use a Super Slicer blade.Set aside to dry.
    Remove the charms from the molds (when baked/cured).Using the Model Air™ you have set aside, create shapes from your molds.You can even create some shapes by hand if desired.(I have created the leave by hand by rolling a small amount of clay into a sausage shape, flattening, then scoring the shape and pinching the ends).You can create as many or as little as you like.Set these aside with the base to dry for at least 24 hours.You can speed up the process a little by putting these out in the sun but be sure to leave them (and the base) for at least 24 hours for maximum strength.
    Using the acrylic paint and a paintbrush, paint the molded pieces. I have used a little Flow Medium to water down the paint a slightly to make it more like a wash, as I wanted the white from the clay to show through. You could also use watercolour paints. Paint the pieces however you desire and leave to dry.
    Paint the background clay using the same technique as you did for the moulded pieces.Allow to dry.
    Arrange the molded pieces on your background clay.Mix up some 2-part epoxy glue(Gel Instant Glue will work also) and glue the molded pieces onto the background clay. Glue the light switch plate to the back of the clay plate ensuring that the screw holes line up.Wait for the glue to dry completely (according to manufacturer’s instructions) and attach the plate with the screws where you want it to go.
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