Getting StartedPolymer clay may stain. CLAY MAY DAMAGE UNPROTECTED FURNITURE OR FINISHED SURFACES. DO NOT USE polymer clay on unprotected surfaces. We recommend working on the Sculpey clay mat, wax paper, metal baking sheet, or disposable foil. Start with clean hands and work surface area. Knead clay until soft and smooth. For best results, clean your hands in between colors. Shape clay, pressing pieces together firmly. Bake on oven-proof glass or metal surface at 275°F (130 °C) for 30 minutes per ¼" (6 mm) thickness. For best baking results, use an oven thermometer. DO NOT USE MICROWAVE OVEN. DO NOT EXCEED THE ABOVE TEMPERATURE OR RECOMMENDED BAKING TIME. Wash hands after use. Baking should be completed by an adult.Begin by preheating oven to 275 °F (130 °C). Test temperature with oven thermometer for perfectly cured clay. For best results, condition all clay by running it through the Clay Conditioning Machine for several passes on the widest setting. Fold the clay in half after each pass and insert the fold side into the rollers first.
Take three small sections of clay and roll them into balls.
Now take a larger piece and make an oval. Slightly flatten it with a roller.
Taking another small piece of clay, roll it into a ball, and then roll it into a thick snake between your hands. Taper the ends by rolling only each end one at a time. Repeat until you have five tapers spikes in a variety of sizes
Put holes in each bead using the Etch and Pearl or a needle tool. Place the holes for the spikes just above the halfway point so they don’t flip around while wearing.
Before baking, add color using Pans Pastels. Pans Pastels come in many colors, for this project you will be using oranges, pinks and purples.
Using your finger (you can use a make sponge if you don’t want to get your fingers dirty, but I like to be able to feel how much is going onto the clay) get some color on the pad, and gently rub it onto the clay. For this project, start at one end, and tape the color down, using less color as you go. It doesn’t have to be even or perfect.
On the orange pieces, use the light, and then go back and add some of the darker orange (red iron oxide) to the far end. Make at least one spike and one round bead orange.
Now do the rest in a variety of pinks (permanent red tint) magenta and violet. Again, start light and add darker color afterwards. Make some beads more magenta and others more purple.
Now bake the beads according to the directions in Step 1.
Once they are cool enough to touch, place one bead on your rubber block (this is optional but it’s nice to give it some elevation and help grip it in place). Put a finger guard on the finger you will be carving towards, and using your carving tool, make gentle small divets in the bead. Press down and then up again in a sweeping motion. Go slow and always use a finger guard. You can carve them in any pattern you wish. Do each bead a little different and you can even leave a couple un-carved. All of the variety will make your piece more interesting in the end
When they are fully cooled, spray with PYMII to seal. I prefer this sealer for this project because the surface tends to be waxy and doesn’t accept all sealers
Once all your beads are carved, cut a 10” piece of wire and string on your beads, using the wavy discs as spacers. I use random sizes, and do not even put them between each bead. All of the little details like odd numbers are what make your piece have a more organic feel. Place the small round beads at the ends, and a couple smaller spikes towards the outside as well. In the middle, you can have the other long and short ones any way you want them.
Once you have your beads strung how you want them, use your round nose pliers to make a closed wire wrapped loop. Make sure it is large enough to fit the silk cords through.
Now make sure you push the beads towards the end with the closed loop, but don’t push them too tight, they need to have just a little wiggle room or they may not lay right. Close the other end with a wire wrapped loop like in step 14
Place both the sari silk and batik cord together, and feed both through one end of the focal piece you just created. Feed about 1-2” through and fold it over.
Now take a 3-4” piece of wire, and wrap it tightly around the cord, creating a crimp with it. You can use it all, or cut it off when you know it will hold. Tuck your ends tightly. This must be wrapped tight to hold. Trim the excess off with scissors.
Do the same thing on the other side with the free end of the ribbon
Cut the ribbon in the center so you have two even sides
Feed one end of the ribbon through your S clasp. You can adjust the size to your pleasing, but I leave about 6.5” of fabric before the clasp. Everything else gets fed through, closed with another wire crimp (3-4” of wire) and gets trimmed.
Make a wire wrapped loop with 6” of wire first to attach to one end of the chain. This makes a larger hole to feed the cords through. Now repeat step 19 using the chain.
Attach the S clasp to the chain and you now have a completed necklace