Free Shipping on all Orders Over $30.00 in the continental United States! We do not ship internationally or to PO boxes

Souffle Silkscreened Box

Starting at $2.79

 

Create an elegant trinket box with a perfectly fitting lid on your first try!

Created by Nancy Nearing

Grouped product items
Product ImageProduct Name
Sculpey Soufflé™ Bluestone 1.7 oz
$2.79
Sculpey Soufflé™ Turnip 1.7 oz
$2.79
Sculpey Tools™ Clay Conditioning Machine
$39.99
Sculpey Tools™ Graduated Cutters: Circle, 6 pc
$6.99
premo Sculpey® Mini Metal Cutters: Nature
Special Price $2.99 Regular Price $6.99
Sculpey Tools™ Clay Blades
$14.99
Sculpey Tools™ Clay Tool Starter Set
$8.99
Oven-Bake Clay Adhesive 2 oz
$6.99
Krylon leafing marker, needle tool, straight edge for cutting (A metal ruler is good.), 1 sheet drywall sanding screen|Krylon leafing marker, needle tool, straight edge for cutting (A metal ruler is good.), 1 sheet drywall sanding screen

Additional Resources

Getting StartedPolymer clay may stain. CLAY MAY DAMAGE UNPROTECTED FURNITURE OR FINISHED SURFACES. DO NOT USE polymer clay on unprotected surfaces. We recommend working on the Sculpey clay mat, wax paper, metal baking sheet, or disposable foil. Start with clean hands and work surface area. Knead clay until soft and smooth. For best results, clean your hands in between colors. Shape clay, pressing pieces together firmly. Bake on oven-proof glass or metal surface at 275°F (130 °C) for 30 minutes per ¼" (6 mm) thickness. For best baking results, use an oven thermometer. DO NOT USE MICROWAVE OVEN. DO NOT EXCEED THE ABOVE TEMPERATURE OR RECOMMENDED BAKING TIME. Wash hands after use. Baking should be completed by an adult.Begin by preheating oven to 275 °F (130 °C). Test temperature with oven thermometer for perfectly cured clay. For best results, condition all clay by running it through the Clay Conditioning Machine for several passes on the widest setting. Fold the clay in half after each pass and insert the fold side into the rollers first.
Condition your clay and roll each color into a sheet roughly four by five inches. (This is a “3” setting on an Atlas machine.) Lay one sheet on top of the other and roll them out again into a sheet about 4 x 10” (again, about a “3” on an Atlas)
Decide which color will form the inside of your box, and which color will form the outside of your box. From this point forward, they will be referred to as the “inside color” and the “outside color.”
Silkscreen and Cut Clay - For the Sides:Cut a piece of your two-sided sheet the same size as the silk screen. Using the Serenity screen from the silk screen kit, screen the outside color of your sheet according to the directions on the silkscreen kit, using your choice of paint. NOTE: Make sure that you have the shiny side of the silkscreen facing the clay! Immediately remove and wash your silkscreen and allow the paint on the clay to dry thoroughly.
When the paint has fully dried, cut two strips of your silkscreened clay the height of your cutters - approximately 3/4”
For the top: From the silkscreen kit, choose one of the round medallions for the outside top of the box and screen it on the outside color of the remaining clay.
When the paint is completely dry on the box top, cut the medallion out with the (big) cutter.
Turn the medallion over, and screen the design for the inside top of the box on the reverse.
For the bottom: Choose a silkscreen medallion for the inside bottom of the box and screen it on the inside color of the clay. You will not silkscreen the outside bottom of the box. When the paint is completely dry on the box, cut the medallion out with the (big) cutter.
For the leg support: Cut out a circle of the unscreened clay using the (small) cutterFor the legs: Cut out 4 seashell shapes using the seashell cutter. Set aside
Assemble the box sides on the small cutter. For the inside: Fit one of the side strips inside the small cutter, unpainted side to the metal, and smooth it to the sides of the cutter.
Trim the strip so that it just meets at the ends.
Smooth the seam gently, so that you adhere the ends to each other without distorting the design. You should not need a release agent on the metal cutter.
For the outside: Fit the other side strip around the outside of the cutter, again plain side to the metal, and smooth it to the sides of the cutter.
Trim the strip so that it just meets at the ends. Smooth the seam gently, so that you adhere the ends to each other without distorting the design.
Trim the edges of both strips flush with the edges of the cutter. Make sure that you can see the metal of the cutter all the way around on both sides. Bake according to the directions above and allow to cool.
To remove the baked clay from the cutter: Slide the knife end of your needle tool gently between the clay on the inside of the cutter and the cutter itself. Loosen the clay by sliding the knife around the cutter. The most difficult part is working the blade between the clay and the cutter - take your time and be patient. You may need to go around more than once. When the clay is loose, ease it off the cutter on the narrow edge.
Repeat the process between the outside of the cutter and the outer ring of clay. Carefully slide the clay off the cutter.
Using the drywall sanding screen, gently smooth any rough bits off the top and bottom of your cylinders. Using your finger or a baby wipe, brush any dust from the edges and surfaces of the smoothed cylinders.
Assemble the box top: Smooth a little bit of the liquid clay onto one sanded edge of your outer (larger) cylinder.
Place the UNBAKED disk for the top of the box (the large disk that is screened on both sides) with the inside surface up, onto a sheet of clean paper on a clean tile. Check to make sure that there are no air bubbles between the paper and the clay, but do not distort the circle. Center the side of the cylinder with the liquid clay onto the plain side of the large screened disk. Press gently to make sure that there is good contact between the two pieces.
Assemble the box bottom: Smooth a little bit of the liquid clay onto one sanded edge of your smaller cylinder. Place the larger remaining disk, silkscreened side up, onto a clean piece of paper on a clean tile. Make sure that there are no air bubbles between the paper and the clay, but do not distort the circle. Center the cylinder, liquid side down, onto the silkscreened side of the disk, and press gently to make sure that there is good contact between the two pieces.
Bake the top and bottom of the box for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool.
Add the feet to the bottom of the box: Assemble the four seashell-shaped legs around your remaining unbaked (small) disk as shown, with the inside color of the disk facing up and the inside color of the feet facing up. Gently smooth the seams so that the five pieces are firmly attached.
Rub a small amount of liquid clay onto the bottom (inside color) side of the disk only. Center the disk on the baked bottom of the box. Now, fold the feet up by bending each seashell up at the narrowest part, and gently pushing the two sides toward each other. Set aside
Add the handle to the top of the box: Roll a small piece of the remaining un-silkscreened clay into a tapered cylinder to form a handle for the top of the box. Using your needle tool, make an indentation just above the base of the cylinder. Flatten the base, and attach it to the center of the top using a dab of liquid clay.
Final baking: Place the bottom of the box on your baking tile with the feet sticking up. Place the top of the box on your baking tile with the handle sticking up
Add the gold trim: Outline the top edge of the box bottom with the leafing marker. Outline the bottom edge of the box top with the leafing marker. Outline the outside of the top. Outline the outside of the bottom with the leafing marker.
Loading...