Please make sure your work area is covered and you are not working on an unprotected surface. We recommend working on the Sculpey® Work ‘n Bake Clay Mat, wax paper, metal baking sheet, or disposable foil. Uncured clay may damage unprotected furniture or finished surfaces. Be sure to cover your crafting area appropriately.
Start with clean hands, unwrap and knead clay until soft and smooth, or condition by running clay though a Pasta Machine. We recommend using a designated machine for clay purposes only. When working with multiple colors, clean hands with soap and water or baby wipes (we have found that baby wipes work best) before switching colors. Shape clay, pressing pieces firmly together. Wash hands after use.
Begin by preheating oven to 275 °F (130 °C). After you are done creating; for best results bake clay on an oven-proof surface such metal, aluminum foil, an index card or the Sculpey® Clay Mat at 275°F (130 °C) for 30 minutes per ¼" (6 mm) thickness according to package directions. Oven safe glass or ceramic surfaces are also acceptable for baking; however please note that the baking times may take longer as the glass or ceramic surfaces take longer to heat up. For best baking results, use an oven thermometer. DO NOT USE MICROWAVE OVEN. DO NOT EXCEED THE ABOVE TEMPERATURE OR RECOMMENDED BAKING TIME.
1/8th of the So 80s block of clay. (¼ cut in half)
Roll into a log 2 ½” long and approx. ¼ inch round.
Cut this log into five pieces, ½” long.
Roll each piece into a torpedo shape using the palms of your hands.
Gently push one end of each torpedo shape against the palm of your open hand. This will create a teardrop shape.
Using the ball end of the smallest style and detail tool poke a hole in the center of the large end of each teardrop.
Using the Sculpey blade cut the large end of the teardrop into five wedge shapes. Do not cut through.
Use the pointed end of the detail tool to gently separate the wedges opening them up.
Pinch each wedge into a petal shape using your forefinger and thumb.
Place your little flower on the fun foam, Take the largest detail tool, using the ball end press each petal. Do not elongate the petal. Just press so that it flattens out but does not become longer. The fingerprints you left flattening the wedges will be gone.
Use the pointed end of the detail tool and press it into the center of the flower to create a throat for the flower.
Use the pointed needle tool to make a line from the opening of the throat to the tip of the petal, repeat for all five petals. Set your flower aside for the moment.
Cut ten pieces of floral wire measuring three inches each.
Using the long nose pliers create a small hook on the end of each wire. This wire will become the stem of your flower. Make ten of these, set five aside to be used for the leaves.
Pick up your little flower and carefully insert the wire down through the throat of the flower. Just the top of the hook should be showing. The rest of the wire will be enclosed by the throat. Gently pinch the bottom of the flower tightly around the wire to secure it. Set your flower aside
Using your medium size etch n pearl tool we will make a pearl of canary yellow clay. Take a small slice from the block of canary clay and roll it out to about 1/8 “thick. Dip the etch n pearl tool in a little water for easy release of the pearl. Press it into the yellow clay making sure you have made a full half pearl, you may need to press it into the clay more than once to fill the cavity. We need five pearls made.
Gently press this pearl into the center of your flower covering the opening in the throat and the tip of the stem wire.
Using the pointed end if the etch n pearl tool dot the yellow pearl to texture it.
Bake your flowers following the instructions in step 1.
Cut 1/8 of the brick of Cowboy and Jade. Mix and combine these to make the green shade for the leaves. Roll this color through the pasta machine on a med. thin setting. (on my pasta machine I use a # 6 setting.)
Cut out the leaves using the teardrop cutter, cut five.
Roll out the remnants of the clay into a square that measures 1” long. Cut strips ¼ “wide.
Lay your leaf in the veiner centering it along the central vein of the veiner. The point of your teardrop should point to the top of the veinerPlace the hooked wire made in step 15 on your leaf along the central vein. The wire should be approximately 2/3of the way up on the leaf. Cover the wire with one of the strips of 1x1/4 green clay. Press the strip lightly so it is adhered.
Place other half of the veiner on top of your prepared leaf. Press down with medium pressure.
Open the veiner and remove your leaf. Paint the leaf with the light green paint, let it sit for a minute, then wipe gently with a baby wipe to remove the paint leaving it in the crevasses and vein lines in the leaf
Putting it all together:
Gather all your cured flowers and leaves. Cut several strips of floral tape about three or four inches in length. Your will be making florets of three to four flowers plus one or two leaves.Gather three flowers and one leaf, twist the stems of all these together in a bundle. Use the floral tape to bind them together. (To release the glue in the tape you must stretch the tape. Begin by wrapping the tape around the stems pulling with some tension as you turn. Keeping the tension begin turning the floret and spiraling the wrapping down as you turn.)
Condition your scrap clay and press it into the bottom of your cup. If you want to glaze your little flowers brush them with the Sculpey satin glaze now. Just one coat is needed.Push the florets into the clay to hold them in place. Beginning in the middle place the center ones first then press the outside ring of florets around the rim of the cup. There are approximately fifty flowers and nine leaves total in the teacup.
This same process can make three, four, five or six petal flowers.