Free Shipping on all Orders Over $49.99 in the Contiguous United States! We do not ship internationally or to PO boxes.

Sculpey Souffle Spring Blossom Necklace

Designed by: Gloria Danvers I live in a beautiful warm city where the trees riot in a profusion of all types of brightly colored trees and bushes blossom every spring. The clusters of the flowers are alive with movement and joy. They are not well ordered, they are not trimmed and neat, they are simply bursting forth with beauty knowing no boundaries. Those flowers are the inspiration for this necklace. It is adjustable, and light and very sculptural to allow the wearer to be part of the flow of the Art. The best tip I can give you is when you are making this piece, do not try to be so exact. It is in the fluidity of the subtle mismatching of the pieces that gives it life. It requires a gentle and loving hand. Do not try to over work anything for continuity. There is no continuity, there is just flow.  NOTE: This project also uses Souffle Raspberry and Mandarin, part of the new Souffle colors to be launched around May 1 2019!
Save To Create Later
Grouped product items
Product ImageProduct Name Qty
Sculpey Soufflé™ Guava 1.7 oz
Sculpey Soufflé™ Canary 1.7 oz
Sculpey Soufflé™ Poppy Seed 7 oz
Sculpey Tools™ Clay Blades
Sculpey Souffle Spring Blossom Necklace
Click image to open expanded view
Sculpey Souffle Spring Blossom Necklace
Dressmakers pin or large needle;Toothpicks; Round nose pliers; Needle nose pliers; Side cutters for wire; .018 7 strand beading wire; 20 gauge half hard SS filled round wire; 1 ~5mm silver rondell; 2 ~ 6mm silver bead caps; 3 ~ 8 mm beads (I used black faceted onyx); 2 ~10 mm beads (I used black faceted onyx); 2 ~ #2 silver metal crimps; 2 ~ 8mm silver metal jump rings; 4 ~ 6mm silver metal jump rings; 5” ~ wide hole flat chain, rhodium ; 1 ~ 25x13 Rhodium lobster claw clasp;

Project Instructions

Please make sure your work area is covered and you are not working on an unprotected surface. We recommend working on the Sculpey® Work ‘n Bake Clay Mat, wax paper, metal baking sheet, or disposable foil. Uncured clay may damage unprotected furniture or finished surfaces. Be sure to cover your crafting area appropriately.
Getting Started: Start with clean hands, unwrap and knead clay until soft and smooth, or condition by running clay though a Pasta Machine. We recommend using a designated machine for clay purposes only. When working with multiple colors, clean hands with soap and water or baby wipes (we have found that baby wipes work best) before switching colors. Shape clay, pressing pieces firmly together. Wash hands after use. Baking: Begin by preheating oven to 275 °F (130 °C). After you are done creating; for best results bake clay on an oven-proof surface such metal, aluminum foil, an index card or the Sculpey® Clay Mat at 275°F (130 °C) for 30 minutes per ¼" (6 mm) thickness according to package directions. Oven safe glass or ceramic surfaces are also acceptable for baking; however please note that the baking times may take longer as the glass or ceramic surfaces take longer to heat up. For best baking results, use an oven thermometer. DO NOT USE MICROWAVE OVEN. DO NOT EXCEED THE ABOVE TEMPERATURE OR RECOMMENDED BAKING TIME.
Split your bars of clay in half and condition on the largest setting as you prepare for a Skinner Blend. Canary to Coral Orange, Guava to Raspberry. (If you don't know how to a Skinner Blend, you can learn at ) Run your clays through the Pasta machine repeatedly to blend the colors end up with clay on the medium setting.
Once you have run your colors through, take a piece of the lighter color clay, condition it to the same width and add a two inch piece, blending it in.
Take the remaining dark clay that you had left and condition to the width of the Skinner piece and ad approx. 5 in” or what ever it comes out to the darker side, then start rolling it in from the lighter side to the darker. You will have 2 rolls of clay that look like this
Start reducing the rolls until they are about 7” long, shaping them into a teardrop shape as you go.
Condition your package of Poppy Seed Souffle to a medium width, and cut to the size of your teardrop rolls. Cover each roll with the Poppy Seed, starting at the point of the teardrop and folding over to meet and seal at the narrowest point.
Reduce the rolls again, cutting into 4 pieces each one an inch shorter than the last. Cut the first piece at about 4 “, Reduce and roll the 2nd piece out to about 6”, then cut in half and reduce to the length of the first piece, and place on each side, then reduce and roll out the 3rd piece at about 6”, cut in half and reduce to fit the cane your now making, and place on each side, then reduce the 4th piece to about 6’, cut in half, and place one on each side of the previous smaller pieces.Take any scrap clay you have, and roll it in black to fit the bottom “bow” of the now petal shaped cane. It does not mater if it matches, it will not be seen in the finished piece. We need that extra for forming the base.Your finished canes should look like this.
Reduce the canes so that they are large at one end and small at the other, keeping the shape by rolling up from the bottom of the cane on each side, finessing it as you go along. This necklace is graduated, meaning the pieces get smaller as they get further from center. This is a graceful look that minimizes bulk on the shoulders where it is not needed.
After you have rolled out both canes in a size graduation, the large ends being 7/8” and the small end being 5/16”, you can slice them. I slice my pieces fairly thin, between 1/16’ and 1/8’ of an inch. They should be in a fan type shape. After you slice them, take your blade on the dull side and GENTLY shape the pieces into a soft diamond shape. Then take your roller and GENTLY smooth out the piece, keeping as much of the thickness as possible.Once they have been smoothed, take a toothpick and GENTLY press into the black clay between the colored petals. You will not use the point, but the more rounded body about .5” from the point.Press in on one side, then turn it over and press in from the other side, then turn once again to press the small petals in on the end. You can then roll the pieces out so that they are thinner and wider. Roll on both sides to create balance in the petal. This is what they will look like when ready for the next step. Remember this is a flow, not a science, and they will all look different. This difference is what creates the energy of movement.
After the petal has been shaped, GENTLY pinch the sides of the bottom piece together, pressing them into one thickness, and then take your large needle or pin, and GENTLY pierce a hole into the piece, forming a bead. Make sure to run the needle or pin through the opposite end as well so the hole will be balanced. There should be at least 1/16’’ of space from the hole to any part of the clay. This will insure that it will not be fragile, and crack. This clay is very strong, but we must also do our part in creating the correct spacing for maximum tensile strength.