Please make sure your work area is covered and you are not working on an unprotected surface. We recommend working on the Sculpey® Oven-Safe Work Mat, wax paper, metal baking sheet, or disposable foil. Uncured clay may damage unprotected furniture or finished surfaces. Be sure to cover your crafting area appropriately.
Start with clean hands, unwrap and knead clay until soft and smooth, or condition by running clay though a Pasta Machine. We recommend using a designated machine for clay purposes only. When working with multiple colors, clean hands with soap and water or baby wipes (we have found that baby wipes work best) before switching colors. Shape clay, pressing pieces firmly together. Wash hands after use.
Begin by preheating oven to 275 °F (130 °C). After you are done creating; for best results bake clay on an oven-proof surface such metal, aluminum foil, an index card or the Sculpey® Clay Mat at 275°F (130 °C) for 30 minutes per 1/4" (6 mm) thickness according to package directions. Oven safe glass or ceramic surfaces are also acceptable for baking; however please note that the baking times may take longer as the glass or ceramic surfaces take longer to heat up. For best baking results, use an oven thermometer. DO NOT USE MICROWAVE OVEN. DO NOT EXCEED THE ABOVE TEMPERATURE OR RECOMMENDED BAKING TIME.
First we will start with 1/4 bar of Turquoise Granite, 1/16 bar of Raw Sienna, and 1/16 bar of 18K Gold.
Chop the amounts of each color mentioned above into very tiny bits with the Clay Blade from the Bead Making Kit. This proportion will give you a lot more of the Turquoise Granite and highlights of the other two colors.
Next, pinch pieces of the chopped bits together and gently pack them into organic shapes. I didn’t smooth them at all. I just made sure the bits were well stuck to each other.
The small clusters are about 1/4” to 3/8” in size. My finished necklace has a total of 32 of these organic styled beads.
Poke a hole through each bead with the Needle Tool. You will want these holes to be large enough to easily string them onto the knotting cord. The ones placed closest to the large jump rings (as shown in the finished photo), will need holes that are large enough to accommodate the knotting cord twice. You can make the holes through the beads larger by poking the Needle Tool through, then giving the tool a gently wiggle. Always poke through one way and then the other to make each hole nice and neat.
Place these on a baking tray for baking.
Next pinch together a section of the chopped bits to form a large pendant bead. Push the bits together tightly. You can add more to it to make it larger or take some away to make it smaller.
Begin shaping this bead into the basic shape that you want by pushing all the pieces together from the sides with your fingers.
I kept pushing in from all sides until I had an asymmetrical shape that I liked. Don’t twist the clay, just push. Twisting the clay will result in a swirl of stripes that is not particular to organic stones, so we use a pushing motion which will create more of a veining effect than a striping effect.
Use the Blade to thinly shave away slices from the surfaces making the piece start to look faceted.
Continue removing slices to sharpen the edges and corners on the front and the back. This will create a piece that looks like cut stone.
Decide how you would like your focal piece to hang and poke holes at the bottom and the top with the Needle Tool. Be sure to poke the hole leaving about 1/8” of space from the edge so the hole will be strong.
Bake the pendant piece and the beads following the baking instructions in Step 1 above.
When the pieces are completely cool, you might want to finish the large pendant bead by sanding and polishing it. This will give it the look of polished stone. Start with the 400 grit sandpaper, sanding all sides of the bead under water. The water helps keep the piece cool as you sand it and washes away the grit. When the piece feels smooth to your fingertips, go up to the 600 grit sandpaper and continue sanding with water. When it feels smooth, go up to the 800 grit sandpaper sanding with water. Finally, buff the piece with a soft cotton cloth to polish it.
Thread one end of the knotting cord through one of the 12mm jump rings.
Tie the knotting cord to the large jump ring leaving a short tail.
String the first organic shaped bead onto the cord and the tail. Trim the tail back so that it isn’t seen.
Continue stringing the organic shaped beads onto the cord, tying an overhand knot between each of the beads. Cinch each knot tightly up to the previous bead so that the knots act as spacers between the clay beads.
Place a jump ring through the top hole of the pendant bead with flat nose pliers. When you have strung half of the small beads onto the cord, add the pendant piece, then continue knotting and adding small beads to finish this section.
String the end of the cord through the remaining 12mm jump ring and then back through the end bead. Pull the cords tight through the last bead snugging the jump ring up to it. Then add a dot of instant drying glue to the cords inside the bead hole to secure them. Allow the glue to dry completely.
Add a 9mm jump ring to the bottom of the pendant and another jump ring through the previous one to make the tassel hang correctly.
For the tassel you will need three 10” pieces of faux suede. Loop each piece in half, thread the loops through the jump ring and then thread the tails through the loops. Pull to tighten all three pieces of suede. Position the loops of suede so that they lay neatly against the jump ring.
Add a 24” section of faux suede to each of the 12mm jump rings at the top of the necklace. String a 24” piece through the ring to the halfway point. Repeat with another piece through the other ring. Tie all four tails together in an overhand knot.