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Sculpey Premo™ and Liquid Sculpey® Tumbled Marble Ruins Set

Designed by Amy Koranek
How fun to create some tumbled-look faux marble for an extraordinary earring/bracelet set!

COMPLETION TIME:
2 Hours to make and bake and assemble
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Grouped product items
Product ImageProduct Name Qty
Sculpey Premo™ Frost White Glitter 2 oz
$2.99
Liquid Sculpey® Gold 1 oz
$3.99
Liquid Sculpey® Clear 1 oz
$3.99
Sculpey Tools™ 8-Inch Acrylic Clay Roller
$8.99
Sculpey Tools™ Clay Blades
$17.99
Sculpey Tools™ Clay Tool Starter Set
$8.99
Sculpey Bake Shop® Modeling Tools 4 pc
$3.99
Final image for Sculpey Premo™ and Liquid Sculpey® Tumbled Marble Ruins Set
Click image to open expanded view
Final image for Sculpey Premo™ and Liquid Sculpey® Tumbled Marble Ruins Set
  • Deli sheets or wax paper or other barrier paper
  • Flat mixing surface like a flat silicone mold (as shown) or glass surface which can easily be wiped clean
  • Paper towel
  • Bright gold glitter
  • Rubbing alcohol
  • Dremel drill
  • Heat gun
  • Decorative gold tone connectors (2)
  • 10 mm Gold tone jump rings (2)
  • 4 mm Gold tone jump rings (2)
  • Gold tone ear wires (2)
  • Gold E-beads or other spacers beads (16)
  • Ruler
  • 10” Stretchy bead cord (2)
  • Scissors
  • Flat nose pliers

Project Instructions

GETTING STARTED WITH PREMO AND LIQUID CLAY:
Please make sure your work area is covered and you are not working on an unprotected surface. We recommend working on the Sculpey® Oven Safe Work Mat, wax paper, metal baking sheet, or disposable foil. Uncured Liquid Polymer Clay may damage unprotected furniture or finished surfaces. Be sure to cover your crafting area appropriately.

Getting Started with Premo Clay:
Start with clean hands, unwrap and knead clay until soft and smooth, or condition by running clay though a Pasta Machine. We recommend using a designated machine for clay purposes only. When working with multiple colors, clean hands with soap and water or baby wipes (we have found that baby wipes work best) before switching colors. Shape clay, pressing pieces firmly together. Wash hands after use.

    Baking:
Begin by preheating oven to 275 °F (130 °C). After you are done creating; for best results bake clay on an oven-proof surface such metal, aluminum foil, an index card or the Sculpey® Clay Mat at 275°F (130 °C) for 30 minutes per 1/4" (6 mm) thickness according to package directions. Oven safe glass or ceramic surfaces are also acceptable for baking; however please note that the baking times may take longer as the glass or ceramic surfaces take longer to heat up. For best baking results, use an oven thermometer. DO NOT USE MICROWAVE OVEN. DO NOT EXCEED THE ABOVE TEMPERATURE OR RECOMMENDED BAKING TIME.

Getting Started with Liquid Sculpey
Stir Liquid Sculpey® completely. Thin with Sculpey® Liquid Clay Softener as needed - Wash hands after use (we have found that baby wipes work best) .

    Baking:
• It is important to use oven thermometer when you bake the liquids so that you can ensure your oven is at the correct temperature. • Do not microwave the liquids. They must be baked in a Preheated oven at 275 ºF (130 ºC) for liquid colors and 300 ºF (149 ºC) for Clear – Do not exceed baking temperatures. • If your piece is less than 1/4” bake for 15 minutes. For thicker pieces that are 1/4” or above bake for 30 minutes. • If your liquid project has become yellowed or discolored in the oven, when you remake it, tent it by placing either – folding an index card in half and placing your project under it or by using aluminum foil over your project.
Partially mix together 1 bar Premo™ White Granite with 1/2 bar Premo™ Frost White Glitter. I used a pasta machine to sheet my two colors together. You can use a pasta machine, or an Acrylic Clay Roller or you can hand mix. But stop short of the colors being completely mixed so that you have some areas that are more whiter than others.
photos shows mixed sheet of clay as described
Push the partially mixed clays together into a square shaped log.
photos shows square shaped log
Reduce the log into a log that is approximately 4” X 1” X 3/4”. This log should not be perfect because we want to turn it into pieces that are not perfect but would more resembled old pieces of tumbled marble.
photos shows log as described
From the log slice off several thick pieces to make the bracelet beads. You will probably need at least eight pieces for the bracelet and an extra piece for the earrings. The top row shows the pieces laying flat and the bottom row shows the pieces being sliced from the log. My slices are around 1/4” thick.
photos shows cut pieces
Burnish each piece front and back with deli paper, or wax paper, or other smooth paper.
photos shows burnished pieces
Use a clay blade to shave inconsistent sides and corners on each piece. The piece on the left is the original shape and the piece on the rights has been randomly shaved.
photos shows as described
Repeat this shaving process with all the bracelet pieces. Shave some of the corners as well so that all the pieces have a tumbled look.
photos shows as described
Slice one of the pieces in half so that they are long and narrow. Shave the sides and corners. These will be the earring pieces.
photos shows earring pieces
Squirt a small amount of Gold Liquid Sculpey® (LS) onto a surface that is easy to wipe clean. I’m using a flat silicone coaster mold.
photos shows coaster with Gold LS
Add a dash of gold bright glitter to the LS.
photos shows adding glitter to LS
Mix the glitter and the LS together completely.
photos shows as described
Use the flat edge of a tool to pick up some of the LS. Drag excess LS off onto the surface of the LS holder.
photos shows tool and LS
Transfer the LS on the flat edge of the tool randomly in veins into each bead piece. Pick up more LS as needed. Push the vein in slightly into the background clay.
photos shows pushing tool into clay blocks with LS on tool
Here’s a closeup of some of the random veining.
photos shows as described
You can experiment with other shapes of tools that have flat edges. Some will make thinner lines than others.
photos shows other shapes
Create random veins in all of the pieces.
photos shows all the pieces with veins
Wipe excess LS from the surface of each piece with paper towel.
photos shows as described
To remove even more LS from the surface, douse the paper towel in a little rubbing alcohol and wipe again.
photos shows as described
Decide if you will be drilling the pieces with holes before or after baking. I will be drilling mine with a Dremel drill after baking. If yours will be pre-drilled, you should poke holes in them now. If you accidentally mess up the veins you can touch them up now. Also decide how you want to string the bracelet pieces. I’m going to drill 2 holes in each bracelet bead so they will lay flat and right side up on my wrist. The earrings will only have 1 hole each from side to side.

Dip random edges of the beads into the glitter and LS mixture to make some interesting edges.
photos shows pieces with holes in them
Lay the pieces on a baking surface. Top coat each one with a thick layer of Clear LS. As thick as will stay on the top surface of each piece.
Bake the pieces following the baking instructions for Premo™.
photos shows beads with Clear LS added
When the pieces are done baking, move them while hot (using hand protection) to a safe area where you can add more heat with a heat gun. Turn the heat gun on HI and move it over the baked beads until the Clear LS really shines. Then turn off the heat gun and allow the pieces to cool completely.
photos shows now shiny beads
After my pieces were cool, I drilled them with my Dremel drill. My earring pieces were drilled side to side and my bracelet pieces were doubled drilled with parallel holes from side to side as well.
photos shows as described
Here’s the layout for the earrings.
photos shows earring layout with metal pieces
Connect the bead pieces to the large jump rings using flat nose pliers. Connect the large jump rings to the connectors with the small jump rings. Add ear wires.
photos shows as described
Lay out the bracelet beads on a ruler to get an idea of the spacing needed between each bead to achieve the length of bracelet that you want. Standard bracelet size is 7” but I always go larger for myself so the bracelet can spin freely on my wrist.
photos shows as described
String one set of holes with gold spacer beads as shown.
photos shows beads strung as described
Then string the second set of holes with gold spacer beads as well, but making sure to string them with the shiny side facing out.

Measure for fit and then loosely tie knots and a final tighten before trimming off excess stringing material.
photos shows completed set on worktable
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