Getting StartedPolymer clay may stain. CLAY MAY DAMAGE UNPROTECTED FURNITURE OR FINISHED SURFACES. DO NOT USE polymer clay on unprotected surfaces. We recommend working on the Sculpey clay mat, wax paper, metal baking sheet, or disposable foil. Start with clean hands and work surface area. Knead clay until soft and smooth. For best results, clean your hands in between colors. Shape clay, pressing pieces together firmly. Bake on oven-proof glass or metal surface at 275°F (130 °C) for 30 minutes per ¼" (6 mm) thickness. For best baking results, use an oven thermometer. DO NOT USE MICROWAVE OVEN. DO NOT EXCEED THE ABOVE TEMPERATURE OR RECOMMENDED BAKING TIME. Wash hands after use. Baking should be completed by an adult.Begin by preheating oven to 275 °F (130 °C). Test temperature with oven thermometer for perfectly cured clay. For best results, condition all clay by running it through the Clay Conditioning Machine for several passes on the widest setting. Fold the clay in half after each pass and insert the fold side into the rollers first.
Sheet out about 1/2 package of White Translucent on the widest setting on your Sculpey Clay Conditioning Machine. Place this sheet on a piece of waxed paper, deli paper or other waterproof material. Put a couple of drops of ink randomly on the clay sheet and quickly wipe it to smear across the entire sheet with a cotton ball. NOTE: The colors will darken when they are baked! Add 1, 2 or more colors to each sheet! Allow the inks to dry completely.
Once the inks have dried completely. Fold the inked side of the clay together and run through the Sculpey Clay Conditioning machine just a couple of times. Lay the sheet on your worktable and add small amounts of the embossing powder to the clay sheet. I've added Verdigris and Gold to this sheet.
Carefully fold the sheet in half, sealing the edges to prevent the embossing powder from pouring out and run through your clay conditioning machine several more times, until you see some nice marbling happening.
I like to choose interesting sections of this sheet to place into the mold. Lightly wipe the mold with a moist paper towel and lay your sheet of clay onto the mold. Backfill the mold with other pieces of the mixed clay and press firmly into place. NOTE: I like to use the end of the Sculpey Acrylic Roller to press the clay firmly into the mold.
Penni taught us to trim the excess clay from the middle to each edge, instead of trying to trim from one end to the other. This helps to prevent image distortion. (you can see the bits I have added to the back to fill the mold and the marks from the end of the acrylic roller!)
Pop the clay out of the mold and meet your new tiki! Admire how those partially mixed bits of ink and embossing powders contribute to the look of your tiki and even how rough edges and flaws seem to embolden the tiki.
Here are the remaining pieces I made from this 2oz block of clay. Remember that they will change dramatically when baked! The clay will become translucent, allowing the inks and the powders to become more dominant. The embossing powders should "bloom" in the heat of the oven and become pretty dramatic! All adding to the weathered faux wood look of the tiki! Use a small needle tool to poke a hole in the top of the tiki to accomodate your eyepin. You can also just push the eyepin and and bake the clay. Remove to remove it and glue it back in after baking. Bake your tikis according to the directions in Step 1 above. I added a photo ofwhat they looked like after baking as well!
Once the tiki has baked and cooled, I decided to add a little green verdigris-type paint wash to him. I started by working the paint down into the textures of the baked tiki working in small sections. I used a baby wipe to remove the paint from the upper portions of the textures. NOTE: A damp paper towel will work as well!
Once the entire tiki has a paint wash, set aside to dry.
I like to add a little contouring to his face, with a slightly lighter green or khaki color - highlighting his cheeks and across his browline - like applying makeup (I assume, I don't wear it!)
I added a little metallic bronze paint to his eyes to give a little flash as well.
If you would like to add the "hair" as I did, just apply glue to the back of the finished tiki and trim a piece of burlap to be just wider than the pendant and taller to create the hair.
After the glue has dried, trim, the edges of the burlap to the tiki and pull the cross threads on the top to create the hair.
Finally add your eyepin NOTE: I drill my clay after baking. Add a drop of glue to the eye pin and push into the hole. Once the glue has dried, I threaded a soft leather cord through the eye pin and added cord crimps and a clasp to the ends of the cord. Done and ready to wear to your tropical adventure!