Getting StartedPolymer clay may stain. CLAY MAY DAMAGE UNPROTECTED FURNITURE OR FINISHED SURFACES. DO NOT USE polymer clay on unprotected surfaces. We recommend working on the Sculpey clay mat, wax paper, metal baking sheet, or disposable foil. Start with clean hands and work surface area. Knead clay until soft and smooth. For best results, clean your hands in between colors. Shape clay, pressing pieces together firmly. Bake on oven-proof glass or metal surface at 275°F (130 °C) for 30 minutes per ¼" (6 mm) thickness. For best baking results, use an oven thermometer. DO NOT USE MICROWAVE OVEN. DO NOT EXCEED THE ABOVE TEMPERATURE OR RECOMMENDED BAKING TIME. Wash hands after use. Baking should be completed by an adult.Begin by preheating oven to 275 °F (130 °C). Test temperature with oven thermometer for perfectly cured clay. For best results, condition all clay by running it through the Clay Conditioning Machine for several passes on the widest setting. Fold the clay in half after each pass and insert the fold side into the rollers first.
Using one block of conditioned 1 block of Premo! Accents Pearl and roll it out at the thickest setting of your Clay Conditioning Machine. With the card stock and a ruler make a template of the height you want to have your bracelet! My template is 1 ¼ inch/ 3.5 cm wide. Most cookie cutters are too narrow and so the clay does not have enough more space if you want to have a wider bracelet. The template can be used to cut a straight clay stripe first and then inserted in the cookie cuter while cure ensures the wide clay stripe will have enough support to remain up straight!
Place your card stock template on the rolled out clay and cut along both sides of the template to help cut straight.
Don’t cut off the sides of your clay strip! It is better to do that when you have placed the clay on your cookie cutter. Insert the card stock template in your cookie cutter. Now roll the clay on the outside of the cookie cutter around once. Cut the overlapping pieces off and smooth it with your fingers or a tool to help connect the clay. Put the basic bracelet shape to the side and bake it together with the now following tear drops!
Roll out the remaining pearl clay at the thickest setting of your Clay Conditioning machine and place it on your backing tile. Make sure the clay sticks to the tile!
Use two tear drop shaped cutters to cut out little frames. Measure at your bracelet how big you need to make the shapes! I used the second and third smallest cutter from the Sculpey Graduated cutter set. Cut the bigger shape out first. It depends how large your bracelet is how many shapes you will need. I needed 12 shapes formine, but I always like to make some extra ones in case I do not like one or two so Istill can exchange them.
Then cut out the smaller tear drops. Be careful that you will have an even frame size all around! Take the inner part out with your needle tool.
Make sure all tear drop frames are pressed down to the tile, so none of the liquid clay can leak out when we fill the frames next!
Fill half of your frames with Pearl Liquid Sculpey and half with Silver Liquid Sculpey. Do not fill them up to the rim with liquid clay, because you still need some space to add more for the pattern!
Now add drops of the other liquid color on top. I added them in the middle of the round tear drop part. Take a tooth pick and make spiky patterns with it in the liquid clay. It´s a little like marbling. Then add another drop of the first color and dragthem out in the previous spikes! (From left to right) Add a patterns to all of your tear drops like this!
Carefully place the tile with the tear drops and the basic bracelet shape, that you already made, in the oven and cure everything as directed in Step 1.
When your tear drops and the bracelet shape are baked and cooled down, continue with the next part: Roll out the remaining clay on a thin setting (I used a number 4 setting) and cut the clay with your template in a strip.
Roll the clay strip around your basic shape and cut any overlapping piece off. Smooth the seam out so it will not be visible any more. Cut any piece that is higher than the shape of your base as well.Now you should have a fresh layer of clay all around your basic shape.
Lay out the tear drops in the way you want to place them on your bracelet. Ialternated the Pearl with the Silver shapes.
Place the tear drop shapes on the fresh clay in a regular pattern. You still can take them off carefully and replace them if you have too much or too little space between the shapes!
Roll the remaining clay out on the thickest setting and cut little half domes out with the biggest Etch ´n Pearl tool. They come out much more easily of the end of the tool, if you dip it in a little water first! Have a little dish with water ready for that use!
Just take the tool and press it down through the clay and lift it up again. Cut out enough domes to place them on the upper and lower rim of your bracelet between the tear drop shapes in a regular pattern. I needed 24 pearl shapes for my bracelet.
Make sure the pearl decorations and the tear drop shapes are placed as you want them or correct the placement if needed. Press them to the fresh clay so they will stay there.
Since the tear drop shapes are flat and not curved, they need to be bend around thebracelet while cured. For this we will use aluminium foil. Make a strip that has the same height as the bracelet, but is folded a couple of times and much longer than once around. Smoothly lay the foil around your bracelet and twist the ends together. Twist them so they will hold the tear drops tied to the bracelet shape under them! Then cure the bracelet for 30 min. at at 275°F (130°C). Let it cool after curing.
The bracelet still has straight cut edges at the side. Take the remaining pearl clayand roll out two long thin rods to place them on top of the edges.
Place one rod on one side of the bracelet and press it down so it will stick to the side. Cut off any overlapping parts and smooth the fresh clay so it will give a nice rounded edge at the side of the bracelet. I like to use my fingers or the small rubber tip of the Style and Detail Tool for that.First cure one side of the bracelet for 30 min. at at 275°F (130°C) and after curing add the second side. This makes it much easier to not distorted the rounded edge of the bracelet! When the cured bracelet has cooled, add the second edge in the same manner. Cure it again for 30 min. at at 275°F (130°C) and let it cool completely.
Congratulations! You have finished your new bracelet! ;-)