Please make sure your work area is covered and you are not working on an unprotected surface. We recommend working on the Sculpey® Oven-Safe Work Mat, wax paper, metal baking sheet, or disposable foil. Uncured clay may damage unprotected furniture or finished surfaces. Be sure to cover your crafting area appropriately.
Start with clean hands, unwrap and knead clay until soft and smooth, or condition by running clay though a Pasta Machine. We recommend using a designated machine for clay purposes only. When working with multiple colors, clean hands with soap and water or baby wipes (we have found that baby wipes work best) before switching colors. Shape clay, pressing pieces firmly together. Wash hands after use.
Begin by preheating oven to 275 °F (130 °C). After you are done creating; for best results bake clay on an oven-proof surface such metal, aluminum foil, an index card or the Sculpey® Clay Mat at 275°F (130 °C) for 30 minutes per 1/4" (6 mm) thickness according to package directions. Oven safe glass or ceramic surfaces are also acceptable for baking; however please note that the baking times may take longer as the glass or ceramic surfaces take longer to heat up. For best baking results, use an oven thermometer. DO NOT USE MICROWAVE OVEN. DO NOT EXCEED THE ABOVE TEMPERATURE OR RECOMMENDED BAKING TIME.
Condition White, Turquoise, and Copper clay. Roll each on #1 (widest) setting of the conditioning machine. Create three sheets approximately 4.50” x 3”.
Stack the sheets alternating Copper, White and Turquoise. Slice the stack in half and stack again alternating the colors.
Slice and stack one more time.
Roll the stack into a tube with your hands.
Twist the tube then flatten it with an acrylic roller.
Run the clay through the conditioning machine on the #1 setting. Fold it in half and roll it again in the opposite direction. Fold and roll changing directions each time until you like the color blend. Over blending may result in muted colors.
Dust baby powder on the rubber stamp. To create the best possible impression in the clay, use Syndee Holt’s technique of placing the clay on a ceramic tile, placing the stamp on the clay face down, then placing it on the floor and standing on it! I put my clay on deli wrap so it removes easily from the tile. It works like a charm
Remove the stamp. Skim across the raised clay surfaces with a tissue blade revealing other colors until you are happy with the look. Roll across the clay to even out the thickness if necessary using the acrylic roller.
Copy the feather template and enlarge it proportionately to measure 4.50” across which will fit an average wrist. If you have a smaller wrist, cut .25” off the straight edge. Print two feather images on cardstock and create a stencil using a craft knife.
Keep in mind that when the finished bracelet overlaps, one piece faces up and the other faces down. Before you position the stencils to cut out the clay, check to see they are laid out correctly.
With the texture side up, roughly slice around what will be the final shape of each feather. Put the scraps through the conditioning machine and roll a sheet out on #3 setting. This will be the bracelet lining.
Place the textured clay pieces on top of the lining and cut away excess.
Use the stencil to cut the two lined bracelet shapes.
Slant a plastic card and press it to only the edges of the feathers to minimize the thickness.
Separate the layers on the straight edge of each feather and insert a strip of deli film. This is where the hinge will be inserted later.
Create a curve in a piece of 18-gauge jewelry wire. Align the cut edge against the centerline on the feather.
Use a plastic credit card to press flat down on the wire for a good impression. Continue creating lines on both sides of the feather. Use a pointy sculpting tool to create lines down the center of the feather. Use a pointy sculpting tool to fringe the feather edges.
With a Q-tip, apply copper mica powder to the edges of the feather and the center line.
Cut a 4” wide section from a cardboard roll that measures 2” across. Many gift-wrap papers come on this size roll. For a smaller wrist, use a paper towel roll. Squeeze it to create an oval. A slightly oval shape will fit more comfortably on the wrist than a round one
Cut parchment paper to measure 5” wide. Wrap it around the roll and tuck the excess width inside to hold the parchment in place.
Position one feather right side down on a 4” wide strip of parchment paper. Apply liquid polymer clay between the two layers on the straight end of the feather.
Apply liquid polymer to both flat sides of the hinge and insert it between the layers. Position the other feather against the hinge applying glue in the same way
Center the cardboard roll over the hinge.
Using the parchment paper, wrap one feather over the roll. Wrap the other feather over the first being sure there is paper between the clay pieces so they don’t bond while baking.Fold the excess paper into the roll to hold everything in place.
Bake the bracelet with the roll standing according to the directions in Step 1 above.
When the bracelet has cooled, brush it with the Sculpey Satin Glaze to protect the baked on mica powder. Use gentle, quick strokes working from the center of the feather out to the edges. Clean the brush on a paper towel between strokes to avoid smearing the colorful clay with excess powder that might remain on the surface. A clothespin will keep the bracelet from rolling around as you work.