Getting StartedPolymer clay may stain. CLAY MAY DAMAGE UNPROTECTED FURNITURE OR FINISHED SURFACES. DO NOT USE polymer clay on unprotected surfaces. We recommend working on the Sculpey clay mat, wax paper, metal baking sheet, or disposable foil. Start with clean hands and work surface area. Knead clay until soft and smooth. For best results, clean your hands in between colors. Shape clay, pressing pieces together firmly. Bake on oven-proof glass or metal surface at 275°F (130 °C) for 30 minutes per ¼" (6 mm) thickness. For best baking results, use an oven thermometer. DO NOT USE MICROWAVE OVEN. DO NOT EXCEED THE ABOVE TEMPERATURE OR RECOMMENDED BAKING TIME. Wash hands after use. Baking should be completed by an adult.Begin by preheating oven to 275 °F (130 °C). Test temperature with oven thermometer for perfectly cured clay. For best results, condition all clay by running it through the Clay Conditioning Machine for several passes on the widest setting. Fold the clay in half after each pass and insert the fold side into the rollers first.
Roll a 5/8” ball of conditioned clay then pinch a little handle that will just fit inside the top cup of your candlestick. Set the ball aside. Flatten a sheet of clay that is thin enough to feel flimsy but not so thin that is breaks easily. Cut 7 small sized teardrop shapes and 10 teardrops one size larger to create a full size rose.
. Place a smaller teardrop in the palm your hand, pointed end toward your fingers. Dip the largest metal end ball tool into a small shallow dish of water with a few drops of dish soap added so it doesn’t stick to the clay. To achieve the ‘illusion of thinness’, rub the ball end around the petal’s edge, to thin it. Then go around the petal pressing the ball tool from the center outward, to thin the edge only in random areas to create a natural looking scalloped edge.
After making three small petals in the same manner, secure them side by side, point side down from left to right, overlapping each one.
Secure the petal points about 2/3 of the way down the clay ball, leaving the third petal on the right half way unattached for now. Roll the left petal to the right forming more of a point for these petals like the center of a real rose that is still mostly closed.
At this point you will start ‘underlapping’ them (if that’s a word). Thin the edges of the remaining 4 smaller petals, and tuck the next petal underneath the last petal on the right. Secure the remaining petals in this manner.
Thin and secure the larger teardrop petals to the rosebud in the same manner, although at this stage begin to slightly roll and curve the petal edges downward to create a more open, blossoming rose. You can stop adding petals when the rose looks balanced to you, but not too uniform. The base will be very thick, this is normal.
Begin to reduce the diameter of the base to the size of your candle cup and cut it with scissors to the correct length. I placed my roses in a small jar or a glass candlestick for baking, but you can use a metal container or even foil shaped into a small, smooth cup shape. Just make sure the petals rest on the edge to prevent them from sagging while baking. Bake at the recommended temperature and length according to the thickest part of your rose and allow to cool
*Note: if using a glass container, place it in a cold oven, turn the oven on to the suggested temperature on the package, and when the baking time is up, leave the rose in the oven until the glass cools down to prevent sudden temperature changes to the glass causing possible cracking
To Finish: The bride and groom wanted to make sure the roses will not fall out of the candle cups. So, I plan to cover the rose stem with raw Spanish Olive clay that will mimic the calyx area at the base of a rose, within 24 hours before the wedding. The raw clay acts as temporary adhesive putty. Later, just remove the raw clay, discard it and wipe any residue off of the rose with Sculpey softener and a soft paper towel.