Getting StartedPolymer clay may stain. CLAY MAY DAMAGE UNPROTECTED FURNITURE OR FINISHED SURFACES. DO NOT USE polymer clay on unprotected surfaces. We recommend working on the Sculpey clay mat, wax paper, metal baking sheet, or disposable foil. Start with clean hands and work surface area. Knead clay until soft and smooth. For best results, clean your hands in between colors. Shape clay, pressing pieces together firmly. Bake on oven-proof glass or metal surface at 275°F (130 °C) for 30 minutes per ¼" (6 mm) thickness. For best baking results, use an oven thermometer. DO NOT USE MICROWAVE OVEN. DO NOT EXCEED THE ABOVE TEMPERATURE OR RECOMMENDED BAKING TIME. Wash hands after use. Baking should be completed by an adult.Begin by preheating oven to 275 °F (130 °C). Test temperature with oven thermometer for perfectly cured clay. For best results, condition all clay by running it through the Clay Conditioning Machine for several passes on the widest setting. Fold the clay in half after each pass and insert the fold side into the rollers first.
Mold a mini seahorse using ecru clay and a mini silicone mold. Press the clay into the mold so that it just fills the mold. Place the mold into the refrigerator for 15 minutes so clay stiffens, then unmold the clay seahorse by simply bending the mold until it falls out.
Rub your finger onto the chalk and lightly rub over the surface of the seahorse raised areas. Use black acrylic paint and the smallest ball stylus end tool to make a dot for the eye.
Marble a small rope of Jungle and Wasabi clay by twisting them together. Roll 3 short tapered ropes to form mini ocean leaves. Press them next to and overlapping the seahorse on your baking tile. Refer to the finished project photo above. Bake as directed above.
To make the porthole:Roll a smooth ball of conditioned copper clay and press it into the largest round bezel shape. Place mold into the refrigerator for 15 minutes so clay stiffens, then unmold the bezel.
Use a round clay cutter shape that is slightly smaller than the bezel base to cut a circle out of the bezel center.
For the top porthole layer, press copper clay into the second largest circle mold bezel. This time, leave the clay in the bezel and cut out the center area (raised area on mold) with a round cutter of the same size. This forms a copper ring that will be the porthole window frame.
Place your mold onto one side of your baking tile (leaving room for more liquid clay). Squeeze a layer of clear liquid clay in the center of the copper ring to almost fill it, leaving room for it to spread over half of the clay ring surface. Now, squeeze out about a 1 1/2” puddle of clear liquid clay directly onto your tile and allow it to spread and settle. Bake for 20 minutes at 300 degrees as the liquid needs this higher temperature to become the most transparent (the mold is safe in the oven). Remove tile from the oven and immediately place it into your dish of ice water. This creates the highest transparency of the liquid clay.
When the smaller circle ‘window’ is dry, add small clay balls using the clear liquid clay as an adhesive. Press 6 tiny eyelets into the six balls shown. Add a short rope with two indentations in it for the porthole hinge, and a slightly larger ball of clay for the latch, positioned opposite each other. Set aside for now.
Assembling the porthole:Apply a line of liquid clay to the inner rim of the larger porthole piece. Using an ink pen, trace a circle onto the clear liquid sheet, and cut it out so that it sits on the inner porthole rim. Bake both potholes for 15 minutes and submerge into ice water for clarity. When dry, secure the seahorse with E-6000 slightly above the window edge to leave room for the top bezel.
Apply 2-3 thins coats of glaze to both sides of the clear round ‘windows’, including the seahorse and plants. Allow each coat to dry completely before glazing the opposite side! Try not to touch the glaze while drying. The windows will now become even more transparent!
Use a “dry-brush” method to age both sides of the bronze clay areas with a thin layer of patina paint. Try to avoid the windows. Dip the brush in the paint, dab most of the paint off onto a paper towel and apply to the clay in a tapping motion. See finished project above.
Secure the top window inside the larger using E-6000. The smaller bezel should fit into the larger one. If not, don’t worry; just glue it on the top of the larger bezel. I added a short metal tube to the top back center and strung hand dyed cording thru them to create a necklace.
The sea turtle inspiration piece was created the same way, although I added tiny rivets to the bottom layer bezel and used gold Premo! Accents antiqued with brown paint. I textured white+ecru clay mix sand with a stencil brush.