Preheat oven to 275 °F. Test temperature with oven thermometer for perfectly cured clay. Conditioning the clay will take place in Step 2.

Take out one half of each package of color of clay (Blue Translucent and Translucent). Compress each half block using the Acrylic Roller so it is thin enough to go through the Clay Conditioning Machine on the thickest setting. Roll each half block through once, stack them together and then roll them through together.

Lay the compressed layers of clay onto your work-surface. Sprinkle a small amount of glitter onto the clay. Fold the clay over onto the glitter and run through the Clay Conditioning Machine until the glitter is slightly mixed in. Repeat this step, adding a small amount of glitter each time, until you are satisfied with the amount of glitter mixed in to the clay. Take care to only add a small amount at a time; adding too much glitter at once can cause it to “puff” out the sides of the folded clay as you roll it through the Clay Conditioning Machine, resulting in a big mess.

Once you have the desired amount of glitter mixed into your clay roll out a smooth sheet of the clay on the thickest setting of the Clay Conditioning Machine. Gently roll the clay onto the ceramic tile work-surface so it will not shift when you perform the silk screening process. If you are using 1 screen pattern leave the sheet whole; if you are going to use two patterns (making the bead a different pattern on each side) cut the sheet of clay in half and set one half to the side for when you screen the other pattern.

Fill a shallow plastic tray with lukewarm water and set to the side of your work area. Lay your silk screen with the “rubbery” side down and gently smooth onto the clay so it will not shift when applying the paint (your silk screens should come with instructions when you buy them). Make sure your paint is mixed well; use your paintbrush to apply a thick line of paint across the top of the silk screen.

Use your piece of cardstock like a squeegee to spread the paint over and through the silk screen. You will need to work with relative quickness to keep the paint from drying on the screen. When finished lift the screen and place it into your tray of water.

Let the silk screened clay sit for about a minute so the paint can dry a little bit. Using your circle shape cutter cut your circles; 2 pieces if using one screen pattern. If using two different screen patterns cut 1 circle and then repeat Step 4 to silk screen the second pattern, let the paint set, and cut your second circle.

Lift the sheet(s) of clay from around the circle(s) you have cut out and put it to the side. Slide your blade under the edge of your cut circles to get them off the work-surface. Take your cut circles and center them on the top of the light bulbs; one on each light bulb. Using your palm gently press them onto the light bulbs so they conform to the curve of the bulb. Bake the cut pieces directly on the light bulbs at 275 °F for about 10-15 minutes. Remove from bulbs when completely cooled. Your circles will now be “domed”.

Lay out your piece of 220 grit sandpaper (grit side up) onto a level surface and pour a little water on the surface. Place your domed circles open side down onto the sandpaper. Using gentle and even pressure, press and rub the domes in a circular motion against the sandpaper. Stop frequently to rinse the sandpaper off so it does not get clogged up with sanded bits of clay. You want to sand until the open edge of the domed clay is flat. These edges need to be flat so you can connect the two domes together with as little open seam showing as possible.

Pick up one of your domed pieces. Lay your ruler across the flat (sanded) edge of the piece so you can draw a straight line to carve the groove that will be the hole. Where you draw this line will be determined by whether you want your bead to have a hole that is centered or more of a “top-drilled” hole. Once you have decided where you want your hole to line up, hold the ruler in position and draw your line for carving. Use the linoleum cutter to cut a groove along the lines you marked. You will be carving a groove that is about half the size of the hole you want. Keep in mind the size beading wire or cord you are going to be putting the bead on when you decide how deep to carve the grove.

Pick up the second domed piece you made and place the two open sides together; now you can see that these are the two halves of the whole bead. Shift and rotate them together until you have them lined up so you see as little gapping as possible. Holding them together, pick up your pen and put the tip into the hole on each side, marking a line on the un-carved half as best as you can. Take the two halves apart. Line your ruler up across the marks you made on your second half and draw in the rest of the line. Now that you have your line drawn, use the linoleum cutter to carve this half like you did in Step 8.

Go back to your silk screened sheets and pinch off a “pea sized” bit that doesn’t have any paint on it. Place this small bit of clay on your work-surface, add a drop or two of Bake N’ Bond, and use your Super Slicer to smash the clay and Bake N’ Bond together making a thick paste. Smear a little of this mixture onto the flat sanded edge of one of the domed pieces taking care to avoid the holes.

Position the second dome against the piece that you just added the paste to. Line them up together so the holes line up. Gently twist the two halves back and forth against each other to get good adhesion. Turn the halves back together so the holes are lined up again. Using the toothpick or pin, go into the holes and scrape out any paste that might be in the holes. Check the edges to see if any paste has squeezed out. If there is some paste around the edge you can use your finger to smooth it down and wipe away the excess. You can also add some paste to help fill in any areas where there might be some overlap or gapping. Just take your time and give the edges a good inspection and touch-up; doing so will result in a nice seamless bead.

Place the bead on a layer of polyester fiber fill so when you bake it the bead retains its shape and the paint doesn’t get too hot sitting against your baking surface. Bake the bead at 275 °F for about 30 minutes. Remove from oven when completely cool.

Paint a thin coat of the Sculpey Glossy Glaze over the entire surface of the bead being careful to avoid the holes. The glaze will seal in the paint and make the sparkle of the glitter really stand out. Once the glaze has dried completely you’re all set to complete the piece into a marvelous piece of jewelry. Enjoy!