Preheat oven to 275 °F. Test temperature with oven thermometer for perfectly cured clay. Condition all clay by kneading until it’s soft and smooth or running it through the Clay Conditioning Machine for several passes on the widest setting. Fold the clay in half after each pass and insert the fold side into the rollers first.

Digital Photos work great for this project but you can also scan your images into the computer, or select images from the web.

Once you decide on the image, open the image using the image manipulating software you have. Go to the effects list and then the effect listed as sketch, drawing or charcoal, depending on which effect looks best with your image.

If you wish, flip the image left to right, as the transfer process will create a "mirror image" of the original photo. Note: If the image contains wording you will have to flip the image horizontally to be sure that the lettering reads the right way once you make the transfer.

Print the converted image out. A good size is 3” x 5”; this allows you to print about 4 images on one piece of paper.

Inkjet printer images don't transfer well, take your sheets of images to a copier (toner based, such a laser printer) and copy the images, again manipulating the exposure (if you can). SOME COPIERS WORK BETTER THAN OTHERS DO - EXPERIMENT WITH THIS!

Now the fun begins. Condition and roll a sheet of the Beige clay about 1/8 inch thick; which is the widest setting on the Clay Conditioning Machine.

Trim the transfer to about ¼ inch around the image and place the transfer face down on the clay and soak the back of it with alcohol, using a cotton ball. Soak the entire piece of transfer paper for better adhesion.

Rub out any visible air bubbles with your finger or the back of an old tablespoon.

Allow the alcohol to completely evaporate (about 3-4 minutes, depending on the conditions of the room).

Re-soak the transfer with the alcohol and let set for about 15-30 seconds.

Begin lifting the corner of the transfer, watching carefully for any areas that didn't transfer fully. If you see such an area, lay the transfer back down and bray the area with the back of your spoon or your fingernail.

Once the paper is completely removed, you can wipe the entire image with alcohol to help remove any remaining traces of paper.

Trim the clay to the desired size and bake according to your package directions.

Once the clay is cooled it’s time to color. Don't use highly sharpened leads on my pencils - dull round works quite nicely on the clay. You can smooth and blend the colors with your finger or a cotton swab.

Layer the color on slowly; remember this is the fun part. Layer color upon color for a really rich effect. You can see how the green pencil strokes in the background add more color making the image a bit richer looking.

The edges of the piece can be finished with either a black Sharpie pen, Rub-n-Buff or acrylic paint.

It is not necessary to seal the image once you have it colored in but if you decide you wish to do so you can use the Studio Glazes, the Satin Glaze works particularly well. Lightly brush on a thin layer so you don’t smear any of the colored pencil. Let dry completely and you’re done.