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Tropical Goldfish Switch Plate Cover
Design
by Heather Roselli
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Materials:
- Sculpey E-Z Release Push Mold - My
Pets
- Premo! Sculpey Polymer clay in the
following colors: White 5001, Translucent 5310, Cadmium Yellow 5572,
Orange 5033, Purple 5513
- Embossing Powders in following colors:
Cobalt Tapestry, Topiary Green, Chocolate Brown, and Sea Mist Pearls
or Wintergreen Pastels
- Black, Clear and Blue tiny hole-less
beads
- Sandpaper or nylon scrubbing pad for
texture
- Wavy or Waffle Blade · Sculpey Super
Slicer
- Exacto blade or craft knife
- Future Floor Polish or other gloss
finish such as Sculpey Gloss Glaze
- Taper point clay shaper or knitting
needle
- Needle tool
- Acrylic roller or brayer
- Pasta machine
- Baking Surface (index cards on a cookie
sheet or glass baking dish)
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USING FLEXIBLE PUSHMOLDS TO
MOLD IN COLOR:
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Practice
to determine how much clay will fill your selection. It
takes less than you might think!
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When building in color layers, a little goes a long way.
Use a clay shaper, paintbrush handle or a pencil eraser
to pull any excess away from the lower boundaries.
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You want to just fill the lower boundaries, even leaving
them a little shallow. The final layer of color will
fill into the shallow areas, leaving a neat border. But,
if the first colors are "domed" up, the final molding pressures
will force the "dome" out of its boundaries, leading to
a smeared look. LESS IS MORE in this case.
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When
the lower boundaries are filled with their colors, press
the main clay color into the center of the mold. Gently
press and pat so it flows into the shape. When the clay
is nearly level with the top of the mold, use your index
finger to gently pull any excess away so that you can see
all edge boundaries of the mold. This eliminates a "skin"
that would need to be trimmed away.
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Let the clay "rest" for some time; or, put the mold into
the freezer compartment for 3-4 minutes.
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Remove
from freezer, and "pop" your molded piece out by pressing
from the backside of the mold. It will come out like an
ice cube.
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If any color residue remains, wipe the mold out with a baby
wipe or a Windex dampened paper towel
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Directions:
For
Blended Canes:
- Make Skinner
Blends (for directions on making Skinner Blends, click on Gingerbread
Candy House Project by Tamila Darling) between
orange/cadmium yellow, purple/white, yellow/white. Follow all steps.
Roll your stretched blends from light to dark.
- Reduce each
Skinner blend cane to roughly 5/8" in diameter. Cut off 1" length
and reduce that section to 3/8" in diameter. The larger cane will
make the fish bodies, while the smaller cane will make the fish
fins.
Mixing Colors:
- Water Blues = Mi at least 3 or 4 different
light and transparent blues by combining a small amount of Blue
Pearl Embossing Powder into translucent clay; by mixing a small
amount of cobalt tapestry embossing powder into translucent clay;
and by mixing a small amount of blue with white.
- Leaf Greens = Mix 2 different leaf
greens by combining a small amount of Topiary Green embossing powder
into translucent clay; and by mixing a small amount of either Sea
Mist Pearls or Wintergreen Pastels embossing powder into translucent
clay.
- Sand = Mix a light brown color by
combining a small amount of Chocolate Brown embossing powder into
translucent clay. (Another option would be to use Granitex Brown
3001 mixed into translucent clay.
Cover the Switch Plate:
Water:
- Cut several 3" x 4" rectangles from
#4 or #5 sheets of each blue color and twice as many from translucent
clay. Stack sheets alternating the blues with the translucent. Use
the roller to compress the sheets into a nice slab and to remove
air bubbles. Cut the stack in the middle, creating two 3" x 2" pieces.
Stack one on top of another and compress again. Allow the block
to rest and cool before slicing.

- Cut the water stack at a 45 degree
angle into thin sheets with the wavy/waffle blade. Run these slices
through the pasta machine to a f#6 thickness.
- Prepare a #4 sheet of white at least
1/4" larger than the switch plate on each side. Cover the white
sheet with water slices, trying to keep the wavy lines running horizontally.
Occasionally place a piece of waxed paper over the sheet and smooth
with brayer.
- Once the sheet is fully covered, run
it through the pasta machine on #1; turn the sheet 90 degrees and
run through on #2, turn again and run through on #3. Turn the water
sheet upside down on waxed paper.
- Coat the front of the switch plate
with white craft glue (Sobo or Tacky). Place the switch plate cover
face down onto the center of the shite sheet. Cut sheet 1/2" around
all sides of the plate. Lift the edge of the waxed paper from one
side, and with the side of yur hand, smooth the clay to the edge
of the plate. Do so on each side. Then, cut away excess clay from
the back by running your clay blade along the edge at a 45 degree
angle. Smooth trimmed edges.
 
- Use an Exacto knife to cut clay away
from the switch opening. Use a skewer to open screw holes. Be sure
to insert screws into holes to check for a good fit.
Sand:
Press
an irregular rectangular blob of the sand mix out with your hands,
keeping one irregular border. Run it through the pasta machine starting
on thickest setting. Turn the clay 1/4 of a turn and put it through
on the next thickest setting. Continue until you have an irregular
rectangle long enough the span the bottom of the plate, and about
#4 or #5 in thickness. Apply to bottom edge of the plate, covering
sides and bottom edges completely.
- Smooth clay, turn plate over and cut
excess from the edges as above. Do not smooth out the top edge of
the sand, leave it raised above the water. Using sandpaper or a
nylon scrubbing pad, pat the sand colored clay to create a sand-like
texture.
Leaves:
- Roll the leaf green clays into cylinder
about 1/4" in diameter. Pinch along one side of the cylinder to
form a teardrop shape. Allow to rest, then cut 1/8"
slices from the teardrop cane with your Sculpey Super Slicer.
- Place a leaf onto the end of the needle
tool, with the rounded section near the point. Fold leaf slightly
around the needle to form a center vein. While still on the needle,
place the leaf onto the plate, slightly overlapping them like kelp
or seaweed.
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For Each Fish:
- Slice
a 3/8" length section from the large cane. Shape slice into roughly
the fish shape from the mold, warming and softening the slice as
you work. Press the clay into the fish mold, filling all the spaces.
Cut away excess clay if necessary by carefully running your blade
across the surface of the mold.
- With your thumb
or forefinger, pull clay lightly away from the edges f the mold
to create a neat edge around the fish so no trimming will be necessary
later. Smooth the back of the fish so it looks neat.
- Place the mold
in the refrigerator for a few minutes to make unmolding easier.
Then, twist the mold like an ice cube tray to release your fish.
- Pick up one
tiny hole-less bead with the pad of your index finger and place
over eye socket. Carefully push bead into clay using cuticle stick
or knitting needle.
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For Each Fin:
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Slice 1/8" length section from a small cane. Cut slice into fourths.
Shape quarter slice into roughly the fin shape, warming and softening
the piece as you work. Press into the mold, placing the lighter
point in the pointed part of the fin.
- As with the fish,
use your thumb and forefinger to pull clay away from the edges of
the mold so no trimming will be necessary.
- Unmold the fin
after cooling. Using a clay shaper, cuticle stick, or knitting needle
held at a 45 degree angle, make an indentation in the body of the
fish behind the gills. Pinch the light, pointed end of the fin into
a point, and then place the point into the indentation. Press firmly
without destroying the shape or details on either fish or fin.
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- Press fish onto
switch plate, one swimming, one poking around in the sand, and one
checking out the leaves. Press tiny clear and blue hole-less beads
into the water clay above the fish mouths for air bubbles.

Baking
Instructions:
- Ensure that all
clay pieces are firmly attached to the surface of the switch plate.
Bake on a piece of clean paper or index card on top of a ceramic
tile or glass baking dish for 30 minutes at 275 degrees F (130 degrees
C) in a calibrated oven. Allow to cool completely.
Finishing:
- Using a soft-bristle
brush, apply a coat of Future Floor Polish or Sculpey glaze or other
suitable finish to THE WATER ONLY. Allow to dry thoroughly. Use
caution when screwing plate to wall. Do not over tighten the screws
or you may crack the clay.
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