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Materials:
- 1/2 block (2-oz.) of
the following Premo! Sculpey colors:
- Ecru 5093
- Beige 5092
- Black 5042
- White 5001
- Gold 5303
- Raw Sienna 5392
- Fluorescent Red 5583
- Empty 35 mm film cannister,
preferably black Wrap in a layer of aluminum foil
- Craft blade and Sculpey
Super Slicer Star shaped cutter, approx. 3/8" across, Available
from Kemper Tools
- Old cheese grater
- Cyanoacrylate (super
glue) glue gel
- Translucent Liquid Sculpey
(optional)
- Pasta machine, acrylic
brayer, or smooth, heavy glass drinking glass for rolling thin layers
of clay A tassel skirt and ties (more information below)
- Calibrated oven or toaster
oven to 275 degrees F (130 degrees C)
Directions:
Using 1/4 block
of clay, roll a 1/8" (3 mm) thick layer, roughly square of ecru beige,
black, white, and gold. Decorate these bases as follows to make the
"fabrics." Finely grate fluorescent red onto the gold base. Spread
the shreds evenly over the base, and then press them in gently. Roll
a 1/16" (1.5mm) thick layer of black. Using the craft knife, cut a
little square from one strip. The square should stick to the knife,
so lift it and place the square onto the gold base. Cut and place
squares until the base is covered as in the photo.
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Roll a thin snake
of white and fluorescent red. Twist them together and roll to smooth
and reduce. Twist, roll and reduce until the piece is no more than
1/16" in diameter. Break the twist as necessary. Arrange the twists
in lines on the black base, and press them gently into the base. Roll
more as needed to cover the base.
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Roll a 1/8" (3
mm.) thick layer of black and trim to 1/2" x 2" (1.5 cm x 5 cm). Do
the same with white. Place the white layer on the black layer. Taper
the narrow ends by pressing with your fingers. Roll up from the narrow
end, LIKE A JELLY ROLL! The resulting roll will be about 1" (2.5 cm)
in diameter. Reduce the diameter to about 1/4" (5 mm) by rolling,
pressing, and stretching. Trim the distorted ends until you see the
swirl design. Slice the roll into 1/16" (1.5 mm) pieces. Press the
slices onto the ecru base.
Roll, fold, and
roll a very thin layer of gold repeatedly until it has a lustrous,
smooth sheen. Place the layer onto a ceramic tile and stroke it with
your fingers to make it stick. Cut as many star shapes as possible
in the gold layer. Peel away the excess clay. Carefully saw or move
a star off the tile by sliding the tissue blade under it. Place on
white base. Continue as in photo.
Roll a 1/8" (3mm)
layer of fluorescent red, about 1" x 2" (2.5 cm x 5 cm). Roll a very
thin layer of black, and place it on the Fluorescent red layer. Trim.
Roll a 1/8" (3 mm) layer of white and place it on the black layer.
Trim. Press lightly to fuse layers. With the tissue blade, cut strips
about 3/16" (3 mm) wide. Then cut slices of the strips. Place the
slices thickly, but in random directions onto the beige base as in
photo. Press lightly.
To make a base
for the patchwork finial cover the outside of the foil covered cannister
with a 1/8" (3 mm) layer of leftover or scrap clay. With a circular
cutter or a large straw, punch a hole out of the clay at the top center
of the cannister. Bake for 10 minutes in the calibrated oven. Remove
from oven and let col. Leave the cannister inside the finial base
for now.
To cover the finial
base, cut a triangle from one of the "fabrics" you prepared in steps
1-7. Make it no smaller than 1" (2.5 cm) on a side. Press it gently
into the scrap layer of clay. If it doesn't stick, brush a thin layer
of Translucent Liquid Sculpey on the back of the "fabric." Cut a triangle
from another "fabric" and place it next to the previous triangle.
Repeat for your remaining fabrics. Handle gently so as not to squash
the surface decorations.
With
the stitching or tracing wheel, make a line of stitching around each
patch. Check your work to make sure you haven't missed a patch.
Bake your finial
for 20 minutes and let cool. Remove the cannister and foil from inside
the finial.
Roll a 3/8" diameter
snake of black clay. Roll it flat, making sure the edges are smooth.
Press this flattened piece around the bottom of the finial to make
a border. Glue with super glue if necessary. Trim around the inside,
and smooth the joint with your finger. Flatten a ball of black, punching
a hole out of its center. Center it over the hole in the top of the
finial. Press gently, and then rebake entire piece for 20 minutes.
Constructing the Tassel:
There are several
ways to make tassel skirts. Cut-thread skirts are the easiest. You
wind yarn around a book or a piece of stiff cardboard. Tightly tie
the wrapped yarns together at one end. Cut the other end. The tied
portion disapears when you pull the skirt onto the finial.
I used a gadget
called the Tassel Master to create my bullion tassel skirt (Bond America,
71 Lawrence Street, Glens Falls, NY 12801 800 862-5348 bond@netheaven.com.)
The skirt is made
of a strand of smooth cream wool, a strand of cream mohair, a strand
of red silk/wool blend yarn, and a gold blending filament from Kreinik,
all twisted together. The strong tape included with the Tassel Master
will hold these fuzzy yarns just long enough for you to crochet or
back stitch the top ends together. The tassel tie is simply six twisted
strands held together and then allowed to twist together on their
own.
If you make a
cut-thread skirt, make sure it is bulky enough to fill the inside
of the finial! Thread the ends of your tie through the hold in the
top of the finial (wrap the ends in making tape to make this easier).
Knot the ends and glue to knot if it makes you more confident. Drape
the cut-thread tassel skirt over the know. Wrap a separate thread
around the skirt threads, just under the knots and tit tightly. Pull
the top of the skirt into the finial.
Make a knot in
the tie to rest on the top of the finial. For a bullion tassel skirt,
coil the top as instructed. I like to sew or crochet the rounds together
for extra strength. Know the tie and thread the tie ends into the
finial. Push polyester fiberfill into the finial around the tie ends
to about 1/2" from the edge of the finial. Thread the tie ends through
the center of the skirt. Push the skirt into the finial, pull the
tie ends tight, and tie them together with a square know. Trim away
the masking tape.
If tassels are
not your thing, cover a blown egg, a wooden egg, or use cutters to
cut out button shapes.
NOTE: for many
ideas on making tassels, including instructions for a tassel made
completely out of Premo and Sculpey flex, read Terrific Tassels
& Fabulous Fringes by Cari Clement (Krause Publications, ISBN
0-87341-819-0).
NOTE: Suzanne
is the author of Polymer Clay for Everyone, new in 2001 from Rockport
Publishers, ISBN 1-56496-637-2.
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