Window
Cling Paintings with TLS
Design by Elizabeth Campbell |
Materials:
- Premo! Sculpey in black 001 or color
of choice if making a framed cling painting
- Translucent
Liquid Sculpey (TLS)
-
Sculpey Diluent for thinning TLS
- Tempered glass
or ordinary glass with cut edges ground or taped for safety
- Artist's Oil
Colors (any brand is fine. The more expensive brands have fewer
fillers than the student grade. Because so little actual paint is
used to tint the TLS, it probably doesn't matter at all which brand
you use. Note: DO NOT thin oil paints with solvents or paint
thinner.)
- Sculpey
Super Slicer or cardstock for spreading TLS
- Small artist's
brush, synthetic bristles
- Alcohol for
cleanup
- Toothpicks
for applying paint
- Pen and ink
drawing or copy of Dover
Books that is placed UNDER glass
- Disposable
small paint cups or palette
Directions:

Tint several puddles or paint cups full of TLS with small amounts
of Artist's Oil Colors. Mix well with toothpick so that no streaks
or spots are apparent.
Review "Getting Started
with TLS Bakable Transfer and Color Medium" in the Projects
section of our web site.
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Float a thin coat of TLS thinned with Diluent over the glass, using
the Super Slicer or piece of card stock.
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You should be able to see the outlines of your sketch through the
layer of TLS.
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Begin dropping your lightest colors into the layer of TLS using a
toothpick. Think about which direction the light might be coming from,
and where it might fall on each element of your painting.
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Don't worry about "going outside the lines," but keep the drips very
small. Drag the color into shapes to approximate your outline. The
color will spread on it's own, and level naturally.
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Next, drop in the following colors. Swirl the colors together with
a little "squiggly" motion of the toothpick. You can leave the colors
unblended as you like.
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Where you do want the colors to blend well, you can create smooth
color transitions by "scribbling" back and forth between two colors
to mix them.
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If you make a mistake or change your mind about the color you want
in a certain spot, you can scoop out the color that you want to replace
with a flat, synthetic bristle artist's brush. This is a size 2 nylon
filbert brush, but a flat will work as well.
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Add touches of a slightly opaque white for highlights. If you like
how your cling looks, cure it in the oven at 300 degrees F for 15
minutes.
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The cured cling is very transparent. With thin applications such as
this one, it is also very fragile. If you remove it and later decide
to add a layer, chances are that the cling will bubble and split at
it's thinnest points. It is better to leave it on the glass, undisturbed.
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Apply a second layer of the colors you want to strengthen. Using several
thin applications will result in a much clearer cling than one created
in one thick layer. You can exploit this quality to simulate the different
opacities of stained glass.
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Cure again, 300 degrees F for 15 minutes, then coat with another thin
layer of TLS that has been thinned with Sculpey Diluent. Use approximately
2 parts TLS to 1-2 parts of Diluent. Allow this thinned layer to settle
out before curing for another 15 minutes at 300 degrees F.
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Wait until the cling is cool and either peel it carefully from the
glass and trim with scissors to stick onto window as is, or put a
decorative Premo frame around it.
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Apply a last
layer of thinned TLS to the cling, being careful to float a little
extra into the crevice where the cling meets the frame. Allow it to
settle out and then cure again.
Using a permanent finepoint marker, such as a Sharpie, draw in details
or an outline wherever you want to accent the design
The frame was
accented with faux patinas. If you use opaque colors such as white,
(titanium, flake or zinc), lamp black, ivory black, cobalt blue or
zinc yellow, the TLS will not be quite as clear, and these areas will
be more shadowy in the cling or suncatcher.
NOTE: You
can be as free form or as detailed as you like in your painting. You
can omit the detailing with the permanent ink pen after curing, or
you can add stippling with the pen to create darker shadow areas.
Have fun with this and try anything. Here is another example below!

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