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Materials:
- 1 pkg.
Black Premo
- Shapelets
- Mica
Powders in Blue, Violet, Turquoise (Jacquard Pearl-Ex)
- Silver
Wire
- Iris
Glass E Beads
- Sharp
Craft Knife
- Index
Cards or Card Stock
- Printer
Paper
- Glitter
- Rosary
Pliers or Wire Cutters & Round Nose Pliers
- Miniature
Eyelets
- Self-Healing
Cutting Mat or Fiscars Shaped Hole Punches and Paper Edgers
- Translucent
Liquid Sculpey
- Sculpey
Super Slicer
- Soft
Paintbrush
- Metal
Skewer or Round Toothpick
- Pasta
Machine
- Glass
Baking Sheet with rubber feet removed
- *Headpin
- *Large
Jump Rings
- * Black
Cording
- * Large
Glass Bead
Instructions:
The Stencil
Create
stencils from index cards by punching out designs with the
decorative hole punches and paper edgers.
Or you
can print out the patterns I have designed onto card stock
and cut with a sharp craft knife on a self-healing cutting
mat.
You should
have two to three stencils for a complete design.
The
Pendant
Condition
clay and roll a sheet to the #1 thickness on the pasta machine.
Sheet should be big enough for two shapelet pieces.
Lay shapelet
onto glass sheet. Pierce any air bubbles with the point of
the craft knife.
Lay stencil onto raw clay. Dip the soft brush into the mica
powder, shake off excess into the jar. Apply gentle pressure
to hold down stencil (paper should stick to clay somewhat),
then lightly scrub powder into openings.
For two-toned
effects, apply powder to half of the design and fill in with
the next color. Lay the next stencil on top of the first design
and use a third color of mica powder to fill in the layered
design. This will give a dimensional look.
Sample
2 shows the punched design stencils.
Once
the design is complete, place a shapelet piece onto the patterned
sheet.
Cut around
shapelet with craft knife. Once cut out, powder the edges
with mica powder. Use a different color on the second piece.
Repeat on remaining clay. You will have two pieces.
NOTE:
Sample 2 uses the stylized square and punched stencils.
Bake
on glass cutting sheet according to package instructions.
Let cool on glass.
Roll
out another sheet of black Premo on the #1 setting. With the
edge of an index card, make line indentions. Criss-Cross the
lines to make a pattern. Pierce air bubbles with craft knife.
Pop baked
pieces off glass. Score the back with craft knife and lightly
coat center with TLS.
Center
on raw black patterned clay. Place eyelets where you want
holes to be. Pierce clay inside eyelets with skewer or toothpick.
You will trim after baking. Trim black clay around shape with
craft knife, or bend the Sculpey Super Slicer to follow shape
and create "mat."
Coat
stencil piece with TLS, adding the slightest bits of glitter.
Bake
and cool on glass.
Pop piece
off of glass, trim as needed with sharp craft knife. On the
back side, ream out eyelet holes with craft knife, by pointing
blade into the center and gently turning. If the eyelet pops
out, push back in.
Score
the back with craft knife. Coat center lightly with TLS.
Place
baked piece on the raw black clay with the line patterns.
Trim to same size as the baked piece. From the baked side,
place skewer or toothpick through eyelet and through raw black
backing.
This is
where you will place the eyelet, (the holes should line up).
Score
the back of the second mica stencil piece, coat lightly with
TLS and center on raw black clay side. Smooth edges with the
back of your fingernail, making sure there are no gaps between
the raw and the baked black clay. Lay pendant on the baked
side on a piece of white card on your glass sheet. Coat stenciled
area with TLS as above. Bake and Cool.
Making
Accent Beads
Roll
out small balls of black clay, flatten between fingertips.
Stencil
beads as you did the pendant. Turn over and stencil back.
Pierce
bead with skewer or toothpick.
Bake and cool on white paper. When cool, coat with TLS on
one side and bake. Cool, flip, coat with TLS bake and cool.
Assembling
Necklace
Take
a length of silver wire, 4-5 inches, slip through an eyelet.
Pull wire
through until you have about an inch or so on one end, the
other will be your lead wire.
With
pliers, wind smaller end around lead two or three winds.
To secure,
grasp the short end with the pliers, (it should be 1/8"or
less) and bend down below the wind, in between the loop.
Feel with
your finger--if you feel the wire "catch", then bend it until
you can't feel it.
Slip
one or two iris beads onto the lead wire. Bend a loop at the
top.
Wind
wire beneath the loop, over the beads and over the bottom
winding. Wind until the end is 1/8" or less and bend the end
into the loop to hide and secure.
Begin
the next link by threading wire through the previous loop.
Continue until the necklace is the length you desire. Be sure
to lay both sides out to make sure they match in length. Then
add clasp onto the top loop of what will be the last links
of each side.
For the
dangle, use 7" of wire. Loop into the dangle link, wind as
above. Add one bead, the accent bead and a bead at the bottom.
Wind
wire around bottom bead, then accent bead, then one wind at
the top of the accent bead. Wind back down over the accent
bead to bottom bead, wind several times, then wind back up
over the accent bead, top bead and finish at the top, securing
the end into the wind. This will give a criss-cross "caged"
look.
Version
2
In this
design, the eyelets are placed top and bottom. Large jump
rings are placed in eyelet holes. Always open jump rings by
twisting to the side with pliers, never pull apart so the
shape is distorted.
Place
a glass bead on a headpin, trim end with enough length to
make a loop. With round nosed or rosary pliers, make a loop.
Slip onto the jump ring and close.
Slip
pendant onto black cord. Knot.
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