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Materials
and Tools: 
- Premo! Sculpey
polymer clay- Black (5042)
- Translucent
Liquid Sculpey
- EZ-Release
Flexible Push Mold- "Not So Scarecrow" (APM11)
- Mica powders
in your choice of colors (I used Pearl Ex powders)
- Small paintbrush
- Pasta machine,
rolling pin or other means for rolling out sheets of clay
- Cookie or
canapé cutters- 1-inch square and 1x2 inch rectangle OR Sculpey
Super Slicer or craft knife and ruler
- Scrap of
coarse sandpaper or kitchen scouring pad
- Copper wire-
18 gauge
- Wire cutters
- Round nose
pliers
- Crimping pliers
or chain nose pliers
- Jewelry jig
(Artistic Wire)
- Hammer Anvil,
or another hard durable surface
- Flexible beading
wire (I used Beadalon 19 strand wire in black)
- Glass beads,
assorted Crimp beads Clasp of your choice
- Oven, thermometer,
and baking tray
Directions:
Making
the leaves:
1.
Condition black clay.
2. Pinch off
a portion of clay sized to fit the leaf mold. Practice makes perfect
when it comes to judging how much clay to use, but generally you
will need less than you think!
3. Press the
clay into the mold. If necessary, cut excess clay away by holding
the Super Slicer parallel to the mold's surface and pulling across.
Be careful not to cut the mold.
4. Use the pad
of your finger to gently nudge the clay in from the edges all the
way around the mold. You should be able to see the edges of the
mold- this results in clean smooth edges for the leaves.

5. Gently flex
the mold and remove the leaf. Set it aside and make more!
6. Open the jars
of mica powder and pick up a small amount of the first color.
Trust me, a little powder goes a long way!
7. Brush the
powder randomly onto parts of the leaves.

8. Repeat Steps
6 and 7 until the leaves are covered. Note- do not put powder
on the backs of the leaves.
Making
the links:
1.
Cut pieces of copper wire approximately 2.5 inches long. You'll
need one for each tile. Cut another piece about 4 inches long
for the pendant.
2.
Position two of the smallest pegs on the Jewelry Jig so that
they are 3/4 inch apart.
3.
Place one of the shorter pieces of wire diagonally between the
pegs on the Jewelry Jig.
4.
Use pliers to pull the wire tightly around each peg to form loops.

5.
Remove the wire from the jig and trim excess wire.
6.
Bend the longest piece of wire at one end into a "zigzag" shape.
7.
Place each piece of wire on the anvil (or another sturdy surface)
and hammer them flat.

Making
the tiles:
1. Roll conditioned black clay out to 1/16 inch thick.
2.
Use 1- inch cutter and cut two squares for each tile you
are making. Cut two 1x2-inch rectangles.

3.
Position a wire link on one of the squares of clay. Add another
square of clay on top, sandwiching the wire between.

4.
Use the sandpaper or kitchen scrubbing pad to texture the top
of the "sandwich". As you are texturizing the clay you are also
pressing the clay squares together.

5.
Put a small amount of TLS on the back of each leaf and spread
it out.

6.
Position a leaf on each tile, pressing it gently in place.
7.
Repeat Steps 3-6 for each tile. Make the pendant as you did the
tiles, but position the wire lengthwise (with the "zigzag" at
the bottom).

8.
Bake all the tiles at 275 degrees for 30 minutes in a calibrated
oven that has had its accuracy checked with an external oven
thermometer. Allow to cool.
Assembling
the necklace:
1. After the tiles are cool wipe them with a soft cloth to remove any
excess mica powder that was not adhered to the leaves.
2. On the rectangular
pendant- trim excess wire if necessary at the top and use the
round nose pliers to turn a small loop. Make sure the loop is
tightly closed
3. To join
two tiles- cut a length of beading wire that is the length you
want between tiles + 3 inches. For example, if I want 1.5 inches
of beads between two tiles I will cut a 4.5-inch piece of beading
wire.
4. Thread a
crimp bead onto the beading wire. Bring the wire through the
loop on one end of a tile. Go back through the crimp bead again,
push the crimp bead tight against the wire link, and adjust the
length of this "tail". (it should extend a small distance past
the crimp bead)

5. Use the
crimping pliers or a pair of chain nose pliers to squeeze the
crimp bead tightly against the wire. (crimp beads are intended
to be crimped, or flattened, against the wire)
6. Thread on
desired length of beads, making sure that the "tail" of beading
wire gets hidden inside the first few beads.
7. Once the
beads are strung, add another crimp bead then go through the
wire loop on the next link and back through the crimp bead as
before, then back through two or three beads. It will take a
bit of adjusting to pull the wire and crimp bead snug against
the length of beads but you need to do this to remove excess
wire.
8. Crimp the
crimp bead as before then trim any excess wire as close as possible
to the beads.
9. Continue
linking tiles together to create the necklace as desired.
10. When stringing
the length of beads that will connect the two center tiles, add
the pendant to the string at the halfway point then continue
beading as before.
11. Once the
desired length is reached, attach the pieces of the clasp to
each side of the necklace using crimp beads.
General
notes:
You
can assemble the necklace in any order, but you may find it easiest
to start with the center and work up on each side. This makes it
easy to match the patterns and keep the lengths even (if that's
important for your design- but random is good too!) My necklace
used four tiles plus the pendant and measures about 22 inches in
length. I wasn't aiming for an exact length, but if you are you
must remember to subtract the length of the clasp to determine
how much beading will be required. (In other words when you add
the clasp the necklace gets longer by that small amount so plan
for that if it matters to you!)
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