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Inset People Pins
Design
by Susan Berkowitz

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Materials:
- Premo
polymer
clay - 1 sm. Pkg. each
- Translucent
#5310
- Background
color (Gold #5303, Black #5042, and Pearl #5101 were used
in examples)
- Translucent
Liquid Sculpey (TLS) - about 2 tbsp.
- Pearl-ex
powders - at least 2 colors (in the samples I used Aztec and Antique
Gold; Flamingo Pink and Russet; and True Blue, Blue Russet and
Misty Lavender)
- Sculpey
flexible mold- Miniature Faces
- Artistic
Wire - 1 spool each of 2 contrasting colors 24 g and 1 pc. 6"
of 20g
- Twist
'n Curl - with smallest round mandrel
- Shapelets
- Classic Set
- Pasta
machine
- Sculpey
Super slicer flex blade
- Acrylic
roller or Brayer
- Small
paint brushes
- Future
floor wax
- Wire
cutters and small, round-nose pliers
- Cyanoacrylate
glue
- Pin
vise with small drill bit
- Pin
back
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Directions:
- Condition
all clay. For a single pin, roll about 1/4 the translucent clay
through the pasta machine on the #1 or thickest setting. Run through
the machine again on the #5 or thin setting.
- Use the
Shapelet template to cut out the body inset shape. I use any of
the roughly rectangular shapes with rounded edges.


- Dab on
a rough coating of TLS with a small paintbrush. Then dip the brush
into one color of Pearl-ex and dab it onto the surface unevenly.
Bake for 10 minutes.
- Add some
more TLS onto the surface of the piece and dab on the second color
of Pearl-ex powder. Bake again for 5 minutes.

- You can
repeat this process several times, using the same or different powder
colors. Don't get too busy or muddy. Remember, if you push the powders
into the surface of the TLS they get a softer color. If you leave
some on the surface, untouched, they look shimmery.
- Make
a sheet of the background color by running it through the pasta
machine on the #1 - thickest - setting. Then double it, carefully
avoiding air bubbles in between the layers.
- Place
the inset piece into the middle of the background sheet and roll
gently with the acrylic roller. If the background clay separates
from the pre-baked piece too much, simply push it into place with
your fingers. Cut around the shape with the blade leaving a small
border.

- Roll
a small ball of background color clay and choose your favorite face
mold. Mold the face, place mold in freezer for a few minutes and
remove. Bake the face and body for 20 minutes.
- When
the clay has cooled, drill a hole at shoulder height from one side
to the other, thru which the arm wire will pass. Drill another hole
about 3/8" down into the top of the body, centered for the neck.
Drill a similar hole up behind the "chin" in the head.
- Coil
3 ¾" of 24g wire for the 'puffy' part of the sleeves. Cut ¼" off
for the neck and cut the remaining piece in half for the sleeves.




- Slide
the 2 sleeve coils onto the second color of 24g wire. Placing the
wire on the mandrel, wrap it 5 times alone, then wrap the 1st coil
around, then wrap another 10 turns of plain wire, then wrap the
second coil, then wrap another 5 turns of plain wire. Cut and remove
from the mandrel.

- Cut the
two sleeves in half mid-way between the two double coils; or half-way
through the middle 10 turns.

- Cut 1"
from the 6" piece of 20g wire. Run the 5" length through the body
at the shoulder hole you drilled. Place one sleeve on one end and
make a small curl in the end of the wire to keep it in place.
- Pull
the wire from the other side, so that the sleeve fits up against
the body. Add the second sleeve, cut close to the end with the wire
cutters, and make another curl in that end to hold the sleeve in
place.

- Put a
small drop of glue on one end of the 1" piece of wire, and place
it in the neck hole. Add the ¼" wire coil. Place another drop on
the other end, and put the head in place.
- Paint
a thin layer of Future floor wax only on the inset piece to make
it shine.
- Glue
on the pin back.

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